Ala Moana Center is only the fourth U.S. venue chosen for a flagship store, along with other shopping meccas: Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles, Rockefeller Center in New York and Michigan Avenue in Chicago.

Influencing the decision to choose Honolulu, as he influences all the design decisions for the Cole Haan company, is Gordon Thompson III, the company's creative director, a part-time Kahala resident who also maintains a home in New York. "They're polar opposites," he said of the two cities.

Thompson came to Cole Haan in 1999 from Nike, where he was global creative director. At Nike he oversaw the design and creation of apparel, footwear, equipment, multimedia and retail design worldwide. He was also the creator of the NikeTown retail concept.

In 2004, the Accessories Council named Thompson accessory designer of the year.

He comes to his home in Honolulu to recharge. "I take my sketchbook to the beach. You never know where inspiration may come from. My eyes are constantly open and looking around. That's why travel is so important," Thompson said.

Thompson's recent travels have taken him to Morocco, India, southern Africa and Japan. All these cultures show up in his designs, whether it's in the colors, textures, techniques or embellishments.

Technology of comfort

"The biggest thing for us is to not compromise the look. At the end of the day, people want a good-looking shoe, so anything you can do to make it more comfortable or easier to wear is an added benefit," Thompson said.

The fall 2005 Cole Haan collection will be dominated, Thompson said, by dress flats that have Nike Air technology in the soles. "We're not compromising our fashion aesthetic for comfort. Women will try on these shoes and say, 'Oh my God, there's air in there.' "

The needs of travelers are also part of what drives Thompson to design fashionable shoes that don't sacrifice function. "Men and women want the perfect shoe for traveling," he said, referring to "the riddle of the comfortable but versatile and attractive travel shoe" that will enable travelers to pack one pair of shoes instead of three or four.

This practical orientation, as well as the passion for young, hip fashion that's attracting everyone from age 25 to baby boomers pushing senior citizenship is what drives Cole Haan's G-Series for men and women.

The G-Series customer is trend-conscious and embraces an urban style. "They are young and on the go; they are not static people. And they are totally tech savvy," said Thompson, who sports the latest cell phone, laptop computer and iPod himself. "They embrace color and are courageous in how they dress. They have attitude and they're very downtown."

G-Series shoes employ the latest in high-tech features. In addition to those air bubbles, for example, midsoles are sometimes wrapped in Nike "skin," a lightweight, waterproof fiber that's also used as an accent to give a shoe color and textural interest.

The ultimate convergence of high tech and men's fashion would seem to be the sleek, elongated slip-on loafer that has a Nike Air bubble inside the formal-looking leather heel: You can only see the air bubble if you lift up the foot bed.

Some of the men's calfskin shoes have natural foam latex liners that can be removed and replaced, as in many running shoes. Men's G-Series shoes range in price from $125 to $245, and women's are $155 to $185.

The Collection

COLE HAAN • 9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturdays, and 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sundays • Ala Moana Center, mall level, Diamond Head wing, mauka side • 941-1270

Above: Trinity python print flap satchel. Retail: $595 Right: Gordon Thompson

ACCESSORIES TRENDS Gordon Thompson says to expect to see these looks for the next few months: 1. Python everywhere, from coats and handbags to shoes — and few will really know if it's real python or a stamped leather look-alike. 2. Gold and bronze, the tones of understated casual elegance reminiscent of Capri and the French Riviera. 3. Espadrilles and wedges — the fashion-forward shoe styles. 4. Turquoise and coral, both colors and gemstones. 5. Luggage-inspired handbags with lots of practical pockets and zippers.

Introduced in 2004, The Collection has artisan craftsmanship and vintage details that recall the '30s and '40s. In a nod to the trend in all fashion categories for vintage-inspired clothing and accessories, Thompson added touches such as a classic tassel, hand-sewn seams and vintage ribbon trims, translating the heritage of the 1928 company into a fashion-forward line.

Soft watercolor hues and feminine fabrics are in keeping with the refined, ladylike look that has graced the runways for several seasons now.

The men's Collection, which features classic dress shoes with cleverly concealed high-tech characteristics, range in price from $250 to $398.

Thompson is in awe of all the innovative technology available to him in 2005. He crisscrosses the world, from Italy to China and back, bonding the high-tech secrets of the China manufacturers with the design aesthetic of Italy, and vice versa.

Cole Haan added handbags to its merchandise mix just two years ago, but they are already getting attention in the fashion press. Like the G-Series shoes, they are primarily based on practicality. Pockets and zippers abound, designed to hold everything from keys and cell phones to iPods. Leathers come in a rainbow of pastels as well as the hot, haute color for summer, white, and the up-and-coming metallics. Handbag prices range from $175 to $595.

Thompson's take on the fleeting world of fashion is that accessories are just beginning their arc: "Women are tending to lean toward shoes and handbags for their creative expression. It's easier to go a little crazy and make a statement with a shoe or bag."