It wasn't all show, though, at Shanghai Bistro. Substance and taste were very much present with each dish — including with the above three — that we tried last Saturday night while celebrating Al and Cristina's 24th anniversary.

Approaching its first birthday, Shanghai Bistro is not a Chinese restaurant, as evidenced by the teak and bamboo decor, soft pendant lighting and contemporary jazz. The place is chic and hip, and has "fusion" cuisine to match this image.

In charge of the kitchen is chef Chih Chieh Chang, whose dishes have been some of the most original — in flavor and surely in presentation — that G.B. and I have tried in a while.

Even his shrimp tempura ($5) didn't just come out on a wax-paper-lined white platter.

Instead, a stylish tealish-green triangular plate, drizzled with a zig-zag line of mayonnaise, was used to present the shrimp tempura that Chang had cleverly propped up to give it a bird-like — with eyes and all — appearance. This prompted oohs and aahs from our table, as well as from neighboring ones.

Our attentive and courteous waiter Christophe — who seemed to be always there just when we needed him — was right in recommending the Shanghai bistro pot stickers ($5), as well as the crispy bacon tofu rolls ($5), which were every bit as plump and juicy as any bacon-wrapped scallop that I've ever had. Yummy! (He was also correct in warning us not to order the rice to avoid filling up too quickly.)

While tempted to try more appetizers — like the stuffed quail and dragon seafood ball — we went on to the next course and shared the house-special cheese won ton rainbow salad ($8). It was certainly enough for the four of us, especially given that our main entrees were still to come.

These included the whole steamed sea bass ($23); "Live Crab Crab" ($22), baked with fresh coconut, dried garlic, black bean, parsley and chili powder; and half a Peking duck ($22), which was whimsically presented in a boat with pieces of skin spread across the bow and the meat lined up in the stern.