First, a French classic — fresh pea soup (delicious made with frozen peas).

French pea soup/Potage puree St. Germain

• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1 pound frozen petite peas, defrosted
• 1 1/4 cups Boston, Bibb, butter or Manoa lettuce, finely chopped
• 2 cups water
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon finely ground white pepper
• 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
• Finely minced parsley, for garnish
• Cream or creme fraiche, for garnish

In a large saucepan, melt butter over very low heat. Stir in peas and chopped lettuce and cook, uncovered, over very low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pour in water, bring just to a boil, then reduce heat to very low, cover and simmer 45 minutes.

Puree soup (with immersion blender, right in top; in blender or food processor, in batches; or by forcing through a fine sieve).

Return the soup to the saucepan, season with sugar, pepper and salt.

Just before serving, heat to boiling point. Ladle into small bowls, sprinkle with parsley and stir in a little cream or creme fraiche (the last is optional).

Makes 4 servings.

• Per serving: 200 calories, 12 g total fat, 7 g saturated fat, 30 mg cholesterol, 750 mg sodium, 17 g carbohydrates, 6 g fiber, 7 g sugar, 6 g protein

Fennel, a vegetable that resembles oversized celery in appearance, is an underused vegetable that deserves attention for its wonderfully crisp texture and light anise flavor.

Fennel-carrot soup

• 2 bulbs fennel (about 1 3/4 pounds total)
• 1/2 cup chopped onion
• 3/4 cup sliced carrots (about 2 to 3 carrots)
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 carton (1 quart) chicken broth
• Cracked black pepper

Trim the tops and ends of the fennel bulbs. Save a few of the green fronds and chop them for garnish; set aside. Thinly slice the bulbs. You should have about 4 cups sliced fennel.

Saute the sliced fennel, chopped onion and sliced carrots in the olive oil in a large saucepan until tender, about 20 minutes. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Cover and simmer about 20 to 25 minutes, until the vegetables are very tender.

Puree with an immersion blender right in the saucepan, or in a food processor in one or two batches, transferring each batch to a clean saucepan or warm tureen.

Spoon into serving bowls and sprinkle with chopped fennel fronds and cracked black pepper.

Makes 4 servings.