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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, March 20, 2005

THE INSIDE SCOOP
Lunch turns into a 'mid-day vacation'

By Simplicio Paragas
Dining Out Editor

Executive chef Darryl Fujita made sure that Lora Williams' crabmeat sandwich was to her liking.

Photo by Randy T. Fujimori

Orchids

Where: Halekulani Hotel, 2199 Kalia Rd.

Call: 923-2311

Hours: Breakfast daily from 7:30 to 11 a.m.; lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; and dinner from 6 to 10 p.m.

Lora Williams' winning bid during an auction fund-raiser to benefit the YWCA earned her the right to have lunch with yours truly at Orchids at the Halekulani.

Although she didn't disclose the amount of her check, Williams did say it was worth every penny.

As a first-time visitor to Orchids, the former Advertiser employee was thrilled with the ocean setting and her enthusiasm — and her eyes — grew as she perused the menu.

But even before we could order our lunch, Orchids' executive chef Darryl Fujita presented us with an appetizer platter, which included scallops, crab cake and a spicy ahi tempura hand roll that had just enough kick to inspire a gulp of water.

Explaining that cooking is simple — if you use quality ingredients — Fujita recommended we try his "Executive Lunch" menu ($26 for three courses or $22 for two), which changes every two weeks, according to the longtime Halekulani chef.

Although tempted, neither of us wanted to return to the office and go on the nod ... even if it was Aloha Friday.

Deciding that she wanted seafood for lunch was easy. But deciding which fish dish was a different story.

Lora wavered between the Oriental-style steamed ehu ($21.50) — short-tail red snapper — and the soy-and-sake-marinated yellow fin tuna served over macadamia-nut fried rice ($19).

In the end, though, she opted for the Pacific crabmeat sandwich ($14.50), which she dove into with her both hands, while joking that these were her "natural cutlery."

Judging from her facial expressions and pauses of mmms with each bite, Lora apparently made the right choice in ordering this fluffy croissant sandwich. She said she especially liked the wasabi mayonnaise and the "pop" sensation that the tobiko caviar gave to the crabmeat.

I, on the other hand, chose the charbroiled, herb-and-garlic-marinated chicken breast ($16), which was surrounded by a truffled relish made with bits of tomato, sweet onion and mango, and accompanied by carrots, asparagus and fingerling potatoes. This may sound like a "heavy" entree, but it was just perfect for lunch. (And no, my head didn't snap back when I got back to my computer.)

As we parted, Lora made one last comment, saying this was like having a vacation in the middle of the day.

I would agree. And like most vacations, this one was much too short.