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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, March 27, 2005

THE INSIDE SCOOP
Rotating eatery offers well-rounded menu

By Simplicio Paragas
Dining Out Editor

Chef Sean Priester and manager Zoe Semereaux have raised the proverbial "culinary bar" at the Top.

Photo by Randy T. Fujimori

Top of Waikiki

Where: . 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Waikiki Business Plaza at the corner of Kalakaua and Seaside avenues

Call: 923-3877

Hours: Nightly from 5 p.m.

Parking: Free validated parking at the Waikiki Business Plaza

Toronto, Canada, has its 360 Restaurant atop the CN Tower. Seattle has Sky City at the Space Needle. And Hawaii has the Top of Waikiki, the islands' only revolving restaurant.

The 360-degree view is in itself worth a visit to this 21st floor Waikiki landmark. But, as G.B. and our neighbors Phil and Dorothy Morris found out last Saturday night, the food and service here have been elevated to loftier heights, thanks to a new crew that includes chef Sean Priester and manager Zoe Semereaux.

In deciding where to celebrate the Morris' "informal" 37th anniversary, G.B. and I chose the Top of Waikiki since we hadn't been up there for some time, and Phil and Dorothy have never been there.

A champagne toast marked the beginning of what would turn out to be a three-hour anniversary dinner. Our waiter Mar sensed our no-hurried pace and was all too accommodating in allowing us to luxuriate in conversation, and later in our appetizers and entrees.

Looking over the appetizer page, I was intrigued by the tenderloin of beef on "hot rock" ($10). Apparently, so too was Dorothy, who ended up ordering this as her starter. (She was, however, kind enough to share a slice with Phil and me. Truly lish!) Measuring up to an ishiyaki tenderloin I once had at Tokyo Tokyo at the Kahala Mandarin Oriental, Hawaii, this entree-sized steak came to the table sizzling and was deliciously enhanced with a merlot-and-red-miso glaze.

Not to be overshadowed were Phil's seared scallops accompanied by braised pancetta ($9); G.B.'s "cocktail martini," containing bits of lobster and spiked with a sweet sake sorbet ($10); and my sesame-soy-and-mirin-enhanced broiled Hamakua and wild mushrooms that were artistically and cleverly presented in crispy wonton "spoons" ($9).

Portions, by the way, are huge here, as evidenced by our entrees, some of which ended up in doggie bags. Phil remarked that he still had two more meals out of his 16-ounce rib-eye steak ($35), while Dorothy thought she had at least the same number, if not more, with her charbroiled pork loin chop ($24).

Meanwhile, G.B.'s shrimp carbonara ($24) — which came with sweet potato gnocchi rather than plain-old pasta — served as her breakfast the next morning. I, too, had leftovers from my rib-eye steak, which was blackened on the outside but pink in the middle. It was perfectly seasoned and topped with roasted garlic, which elevated this steak from good to great.

The entire evening was a towering experience, with the "kids" feeling literally on top ... of Waikiki, that is.