I know what you're thinking: bland, grainy, soggy. Also expensive and hard to find.

I grant you the last two, but your impressions of the taste and texture of whole-wheat noodles may be out of date.

The Advertiser taste-tested a variety of whole-wheat or part whole-wheat pastas available in Honolulu and found that most were quite acceptable — especially whole-wheat spaghetti bathed in a nice sauce. In fact, we'd prefer properly cooked whole-wheat spaghetti to cheap noodles any day.

Why whole-wheat pasta? Because the new federal nutritional guidelines say that we all need to eat more whole grains for the greater nutritional value, particularly the fiber contents and the slower absorption rate. (Because carbs are in effect sugars, remember, and a long, slow uptake of sugar is better for you than the quick hit from highly refined sugar.)

If you eat a lot of pasta, switching to whole wheat is a no-brainer: You get about twice the fiber — 5 to 6 grams a cooked cup compared to 2 to 3 grams per cup with white-flour noodles. Anything with 5 grams of fiber or more per serving is considered a high-fiber food. (Incidentally, Japanese buckwheat soba noodles, which look like they ought to offer lots of fiber, contain none and these noodles are very high in carbohydrates and sodium (792 milligrams before you even put the shoyu sauce on.)

In a marathon evening of pasta cooking, I learned that correct timing is essential in preparing whole-wheat pasta; you can't just eyeball it as you can the refined wheat varieties we know so well. If you cook the pasta too short a time, it's grainy-textured; if too long, it can get soggy. Follow package directions, which call for cooking times ranging from 8 minutes to as long as 12 minutes. Use a timer, remain vigilant and taste as you go.

And, although I'm not generally a big fan of adding oil to pasta cooking water, this step, suggested by one brand of the pasta, seemed to add a little creaminess to the texture — just a splash of vegetable oil or olive oil is fine.

Whole-grain noodles — I tested rigatoni — are generally thicker-walled than refined noodles, which takes a little getting used to.

There are lots of higher-fiber, low-carb pasta brands on the market now. I tried one of these that had a higher than usual proportion of whole-wheat durum flour. These might be a good compromise because, while they're not as "natural" as health-food store whole-grain pastas, they come closer in shape, color and flavor to refined pasta — which might help in persuading children or finicky eaters to make the switch.

Whole-grain pastas, because of their more rustic texture and pronounced flavor, lend themselves to pairing with highly flavored sauces. Pesto works better than cream sauce, for example. (The first pesto I ever ate was paired with whole-wheat spaghetti at a vegetarian restaurant called Mother Morgan's in Seattle, and I thought I'd died and gone to heaven. I also thought for some years that pesto was always paired with whole-wheat spaghetti.) The Detroit Free Press test kitchen found in a recent testing that sharp cheddar made better macaroni and cheese with whole-wheat pasta than the usual medium or mild style.

Whole-wheat pasta is more expensive than refined pasta, as a rule — I paid $1.70 to $3.60 an 8-ounce box or bag, compared to $1 to $2.50 for similar refined products.

Whole-grain pasta generally comes in fewer shapes — spaghetti, macaroni, rigatoni, sometimes gemelli (twisted strands), fettuccine or linguine — and takes a little seeking out. Down to Earth in Honolulu offered four brands, plus many options in nonwheat pastas, some of which are made with whole grains. Grocery stores tend to have fewer options and some don't carry the product at all. We found a single brand of whole-wheat pasta at Foodland Beretania, for example. Check the low-carb sections of stores, too.

Like all whole-grain products, whole-wheat pasta contains more fat and can spoil and develop off flavors and is attractive to bugs. Buy it in small quantities. Store it in the coolest possible place in an airtight container.

Susan Selasky of the Detroit Free Press contributed to this report.

Whole-wheat pasta nutritious, robust

This pasta salad blends whole-wheat gemelli with garden vegetables and a Dijon-based dressing. Ed Haun • Detroit Free Press

Some ideas for using whole-wheat pasta, from the Detroit Free Press test kitchen.

Don't be put off by the long ingredient list. This pasta salad is easy to prepare, and you can prep all the ingredients for the salad while the pasta cooks and cools. You can also substitute your favorite vinaigrette for the dressing.

WHOLE-WHEAT PASTA SALAD

Dressing:

• 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup Dijon mustard
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled, pressed
• 3 tablespoons fresh chopped parsley
• 3 tablespoons minced shallots
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning
• 3/4 cup olive oil
• Salt and black pepper to taste

Salad:

• 12 ounces dry short whole-wheat pasta, such as gemelli kosher salt, optional
• 1-1/2 cups sliced celery
• 1 cup diced cucumber
• 1 cup sliced green onion
• 1-1/2 cups small cubed salami
• 2 cups steamed snap beans
• 1 cup diced red pepper
• 3 Roma tomatoes, washed, diced
• 3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• Salt and pepper to taste

To prepare the dressing, in a small bowl whisk together the red wine vinegar and Dijon.

Stir in the garlic, parsley, shallots, sugar and Italian seasoning.

In a steady stream, whisk in olive oil until the mixture becomes emulsified. Taste and adjust the seasonings or mustard if necessary and season with salt and pepper. Set the dressing aside.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season the water with kosher salt if you're using it and add the pasta.

When the water returns to a boil, cook for 6 to 9 minutes or until the pasta is al dente.

Drain the pasta and rinse it with cold water.

Spread the pasta on a sided baking sheet in a single layer and place it in the refrigerator while you chop the other ingredients.

In a large bowl combine the pasta, celery, cucumber, green onion, salami, snap beans, red pepper and tomatoes. Add the dressing and toss gently to coat.

Sprinkle in the Parmesan cheese and season with salt and pepper.

Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Serves 12 as a generous side dish.

Per serving: 318 calories (54 percent from fat), 19 grams fat (4 grams saturated fat), 29 grams carbohydrates, 9 grams protein, 405 mg sodium, 12 mg cholesterol, 85 mg calcium, 4 grams fiber

Use your favorite variety of sausage in this recipe. Pork sausage with fennel complements the flavor of the dish. This is great for a potluck dinner.

BAKED PENNE WITH BASIL, TOMATOES AND SAUSAGE

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 cup finely chopped white onion
• 1 tablespoon mashed fresh garlic (about 3 cloves)
• 1 pound Italian sausage with fennel or hot spices, casing removed, meat crumbled
• 1 pound whole-wheat penne pasta
• 1 can (28 ounces) whole Italian plum tomatoes, chopped with the juice
• 1/4 cup freshly chopped basil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 cup low-fat ricotta cheese
• 1 cup grated Parmesan-Reggiano or Parmesan cheese, divided
• 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1/2 pound fresh mozzarella, cut into cubes

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil a large baking dish.

In a large, heavy skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat.

Add the onion and cook, stirring, until it's soft, about 7 minutes.

Add the garlic and sausage and cook, stirring, until the sausage is browned, 5 to 7 minutes more. If the sausage has given off a lot of fat, pour it off before you continue.

While the sausage is browning, cook the penne pasta in 6 quarts boiling salt water until it's al dente, about 6 to 9 minutes. Drain the pasta well.

Add the tomatoes with their juice to the sausage and let the mixture simmer, uncovered, until the liquid thickens, about 20 minutes. Add the basil and season with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, mix the ricotta, 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese and parsley; season with salt and pepper.

Toss the pasta into the cheese mixture.

Add sausage mixture and toss again. Add the mozzarella and pour everything into the prepared dish. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan cheese and bake, uncovered, about 20 minutes, until the top is lightly browned.

Serve immediately.

Serves 6.

Per serving: 669 calories (40 percent from fat), 30 grams fat (13 grams saturated fat), 67 grams carbohydrates, 37 grams protein, 1,013 mg sodium, 82 mg cholesterol, 505 mg calcium, 8 grams fiber

Adapted from "Kitchen Coach Weeknight Cooking" by Jennifer Bushman (Wiley, $19.95).

This mushroom sauce is perfect on pasta, but it can also be used with chicken or meat. Use high-quality Italian canned tomatoes.

FETTUCCINE WITH MUSHROOM CREAM SAUCE

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 pound white mushrooms or any mixture of mushrooms, cleaned, sliced (about 4 to 5 cups)
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
• 1 tablespoon dried Italian herbs
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 can (14 ounces) petite-diced tomatoes, undrained
• 2 teaspoons tomato paste
• 3/4 cup heavy whipping cream or fat-free half-and-half
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 pound whole-wheat fettuccine or favorite long pasta
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus extra for garnish
• Extra-virgin olive oil

In a large heavy skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat.

Stir in the mushrooms and cook, stirring and shaking from time to time, until they are browned, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the garlic and herbs; cook 1 minute.

Add wine and boil the sauce for 1 minute.

Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste and heavy whipping cream. Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste.

Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring from time to time, until the sauce thickens slightly, 10 to 15 minutes.

While the sauce is thickening, cook the fettuccine in 6 quarts of boiling salted water until al dente, about 6 to 9 minutes.

Remove the pasta from the water and it drain well.

Stir the parsley into the sauce and serve it hot over the fettuccine. Finish the dish with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of chopped flat-leaf parsley and serve as a main entree.

Serves 4 generously.

Per serving: 698 calories (37 percent from fat), 29 grams fat (12 grams saturated fat), 97 grams carbohydrates, 20 grams protein, 344 mg sodium, 61 mg cholesterol, 123 mg calcium, 16 grams fiber