Combine the stock and water in a large pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a faint simmer.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet or wide-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the prosciutto and cook until it renders some of its fat, about 3 minutes. Add the onions and cook until tender and translucent, another 3 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring constantly, until the kernels are coated with the fat and you can see a translucent area around the outside of each one, surrounding a solid "eye" in the center.

Begin adding the stock, one-half cup to three-quarters cup at a time. The skillet should be hot enough that there is a loud sizzle each time the liquid is splashed in. Cook, stirring, until the liquid is almost absorbed by the rice; there should be a thin layer of liquid in the bottom of the pan. Repeat until the rice is tender but not mushy. It should be neither chalky in the center nor pasty. It should take about 17 minutes in all and use up most, if not all, of the stock.

With the last addition of stock, taste and season with salt if necessary. Stir in the sugar snap peas. Cook until they are bright green, about 3 to 4 minutes, and the rice is coated in creamy broth. Remove from the heat and vigorously stir in the chives, Parmesan and the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Serve immediately. Serves 8.

• Per serving: 290 calories; 12 grams protein; 39 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 10 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 31 mg cholesterol; 371 mg sodium.

This soup also can be served cold, with a few leaves of fresh chervil rather than the Parmesan cream. And it makes a nice small appetizer if served in espresso cups, in which case it will serve at least 12.

SUGAR SNAP PEA SOUP WITH PARMESAN CREAM

• 2 pounds sugar snap peas
• 2 tablespoons butter, divided
• 1/4 cup minced shallots
• 3/4 cup chicken stock
• 1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
• Freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice, plus more to taste
• As much as 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/2 cup cream
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan

In a large pot of rapidly boiling, generously salted water, add the sugar snap peas. Cover the pot and bring back to a boil. Uncover and cook until the peas are tender but still a vibrant green, 6 to 8 minutes. Do not cook so long that they turn drab. As soon as the peas are done, drain them and place them in an ice water bath to stop the cooking and preserve their bright color. Drain them again.

While the peas are cooking, cook the shallots in 1 tablespoon of butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat until the shallots are tender and translucent, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

Place half of the peas in a blender and puree until very smooth. Add a tablespoon or two of chicken stock, if necessary, to keep the mixture flowing. Add the remaining peas and the cooked shallots and finish pureeing.

Pass the pea puree through a strainer into a bowl, pressing with the flat rubber spatula to work it all through. Rinse the spatula blade to remove any fiber and scrape the thick pea puree that sticks to the outside of the strainer into the bowl. Discard the fiber that is left behind inside the strainer.

Stir just enough chicken stock into the puree to make it a flowing liquid. It should have the consistency of fairly thin split pea soup. Stir in the salt, a few gratings of nutmeg and lemon juice. Taste, and if the peas aren't bright and sweet, stir in enough sugar to correct. If necessary, add more salt and lemon juice as well. The recipe can be prepared to this point up to 8 hours in advance (any longer and the color will start to fade). Refrigerate in a tightly covered container.

Pass the puree through the finest strainer you have into a saucepan. Warm over medium-low heat until the mixture is bubbling. While the puree is warming, cook the cream and Parmesan in a small saucepan over medium heat just until the Parmesan melts and the cream is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon.

When the puree is hot, stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Taste once more and adjust the seasoning if needed. Divide evenly among 6 warmed soup plates. Gently shake each plate to distribute the puree in an even layer. Spoon some of the Parmesan cream into the center of the puree in a rough "C" pattern. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings.

• Per serving: 142 calories; 5 grams protein; 10 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 10 grams fat; 6 grams saturated fat; 30 mg cholesterol; 347 mg sodium.

SUGAR SNAP PEAS STEAMED IN LETTUCE LEAVES

• 1 head romaine lettuce
• 1 1/2 pounds sugar snap peas, strings removed if necessary
• 4 teaspoons minced shallots
• 1 teaspoon grated Meyer lemon zest
• 4 or 5 fresh sage leaves
• 2 teaspoons butter
• 3/4 to 1 teaspoon coarse salt

Arrange 4 or 5 leaves of romaine in the bottom of a large steamer basket, overlapping them so there are no gaps.

Place the peas in a bowl with the shallots, lemon zest and sage leaves. Toss to combine well and then arrange the peas in an even layer on top of the lettuce leaves.

Arrange another 4 or 5 leaves of romaine on top of the peas, overlapping them so there are no gaps and gently pressing down to make a tight fit.

Place the steamer basket over a pot of cold water and cover tightly. Heat over high heat and cook 3 minutes after the steam begins to appear. The peas will be crisp and juicy. Remove the top layer of lettuce and empty the peas into a serving bowl, discarding all the lettuce. Stir in the butter and season with the coarse salt. Serve immediately.

Serves 6.