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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, May 22, 2005

COVER STORY
Chef D.K. 'steaks' his claim in Waikiki

Cooks, from left, Luis Navarro, Elton Idica, Kristen Curran and David Nishiumura work behind the scenes at d.k.

Photos by Randy T. Fujimori


Taryn Manago, left, and Ivy Nagayama invite guests to the bar area.


d.k Steak House

Where: Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa,2552 Kalakaua Ave.

Call: 931-6286 (Seafood & Sushi), 931-6280 (Steak House)

Hours: Daily from 5:30 p.m.

Parking: Free self-parking or $7 validated valet parking

Note: Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar is located in the adjoining room

White butcher wax paper lines linen-cloth-draped tables and a weighty serrated steak knife dwarfs the rest of the surrounding cutlery, leaving no doubt that this IS a steakhouse.

During a visit to famed chef D.K. Kodama's less-than-a-year-old Steak House last week, Island residents of parties of eight to 10 people were sighted occupying tables, with lei-donning guests voraciously slicing their way through Flintstone-sized rib-eye steaks.

"This is the king of steaks," said Kodama, whose name has become synonymous with contemporary sushi ... and now steaks. "We dry age all our beef on the premise, including the bone-in rib eye. You can just see the enzymes at work."

Contemporary and upscale, d.k Steak House is located on the third floor of the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa, giving it bragging rights to being the only Island steakhouse that boasts ocean and Waikiki views from the five two-top tables located on the open-air lanai.

"If you cut the trees down, you can watch the show," joked waiter Scott Kaiser, while pointing to the free movie that was being screened during the bi-monthly Sunset on the Beach at Queen's Surf. "Or, you can sit back and enjoy the sunset."

Doing a Vanna-White-letter-turning-like sweep of her arm over Kalakaua Avenue and swaying palm fronds, general manager Ivy Nagayama smiled and said, "Look at what we take for granted."

Her remark apparently resonated with a kamaaina couple seated at a neighboring table. The two paused during their conversation and dinner to sneak a peek at the bustling scenery below and dipping sun.

Inside, the scene was no less joyous and festive. The room was buzzing with laughter with several birthday and graduation parties in progress. Meanwhile, waiters danced around one another while carrying plates of steak, shrimp scampi, french fries, onion rings and creamed spinach to awaiting guests, whose pupils would dilate when presented with their entree.

And for good reason.

Most of them had ordered the mammoth 22-ounce, bone-in rib-eye steak ($32.95).

Broiled to preferred temperature, the juicy, well-marbled rib eye offers a mouthwatering experience with each bite.

Absolutely lish!

(By the way, a glass of CF Pinot Noir — the initials stand for local master sommelier Chuck Furuya, who hand-picked all the vintages here — is the ideal wine to help wash down the steak.)

"We have this once a week," chef Danny Morioka said referring to the rib eye. "We call it quality control."

For $6 more, the half-inch- thick rib eye — which blankets an entire platter — can be accompanied by soup or Caesar salad, potato souflee or rice and vegetables du jour.

Guests may want to splurge on a couple of side dishes. A must-try is the asparagus Milanese ($7.95), stalks of grilled Waialua asparagus are topped with a large farm-fresh egg. The flavor of yolk spilling onto the truffle-oil-garnished asparagus melds tastefully well. Not to be ignored are the yummy sauteed garlic mushrooms ($6.95).

While steaks here are the main attraction, chef Morioka's seafood dishes come a close second, especially his shrimp scampi ($28.50), which lives up to its menu description of "Monster."

"They're big guys back in that kitchen," Nagayama said. "They like to see a lot of food on a plate, which means so will the guests."