The Japanese, however, prefer to sparingly use the term to describe a "feeling" of perfect quality in a taste or "something" that's exactly right for that moment.

G.B. and I experienced the elusive umami last weekend at Tokyo Tokyo.

We started with a flute each of Zipang, a light, refreshing sake champagne — yes, sake — that still hailed the distinct properties of a rice wine but had been naturally carbonated to simulate the aerated bubbly tickle that's typically present in champagnes.

Now approaching its first year anniversary under new ownership and management, Tokyo Tokyo has made leaps and bounds in 2005, going from an under-performing and less-than-stellar restaurant to an over-achieving, exquisite five-star establishment.

The bamboo and teak motif is reminiscent of Old-World Japanese charm, while curving banquettes exude a sense of cozy Western standard.

The food here, too, is a confluence of East and West, old versus modern. While still adhering to exacting Japanese culinary standards — in quality and presentation — executive chef Mamoru Tatemori does instill French touches into his cuisine.

For example, he uses a delicate piece of foie gras to top an equally indulgent slice of Kobe beef Gold — which I learned was even more revered than the normal Kobe — creating his Japanese version of mille-feuille (usually a French puff dessert made with "thousand leaves"). In between the two layers, he tucks in shiitake mushrooms and hints of freshly-grated wasabi to enhance the flavor of both meats. (What more could one possibly ask for or want after this? More, of course!)

Turning once again to French technique, Tatemori creates a fluffy mousse that isn't prepared with traditional fruits or meats but with uni (sea urchin). The air-like texture sent G.B. into a blissful haze.

I would soon follow.

Whimsically presented in a martini glass, the Kobe beef Gold poke ($10) was more intoxicating than any vodka cocktail I've ever consumed. The soft pieces of premium Gold had me stupefied as I meticulously masticated the tiny cubes, taking utter delight in each bite.

Our third teaser offered fresh shrimp wrapped in mozzarella cheese and yuba leaf, then deep-fried to a golden hue and presented in a cradle of fried noodles, which we also ate.

When it came time to our sashimi ($18), our knowledgeable waitress Ashley pointed out the different types of items, from madai (porgy) to hamachi to the Kobe beef nigiri finished with a foie gras ponzu sauce.

Her fluid delivery and detailed descriptions were appreciated. And her constant smile throughout the evening made the dining experience here all that more enjoyable.

For our main entree, G.B. had the evening's special mille-feuille Kobe Gold and I had the same type of beef but ishiyaki-style, prepared on a hot stone at the table. (At $59 for a six ounce portion, these steaks aren't cheap, but they're worth their weight — shall we say — in gold.)

The marbling of the slices of Kobe sizzled as I laid them on the stone, quickly turning each slice over and then dunking individual pieces into the garlic ponzu and wafu sauces. It was like butter. True euphoria.