Posted on: Sunday, October 16, 2005
COVER STORY
The secret's out, says David Nagaishi
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| Chef Lester Omuro says these are some of his favorite dishes, including the prime rib and Kahala ribs.
Photos by Randy T. Fujimori David Nagaishi welcomes guests to the quaint private dining area. Ocean House Where: 2169 Kalia Rd., Outrigger Reef Hotel Call: 923-2277 Hours: Open nightly from 5 to 10 p.m. Parking: Valet parking is available for $5 for four hours. |
Sliding back a bank of glass panels to let in the natural sea salt air, Ocean House manager Jon Groth said this is the "wow" factor, referring to the postcard-perfect Diamond Head view.
"People don't realize that the water is right there," said Groth, pointing to the ocean. "So, when they walk in for the first time, you can see the utter amazement in their eyes."
Hours before opening for dinner last week, Ocean House staff members were already busy polishing silverware, wiping down glasses and filling salt and pepper shakers.
"We've got to make sure that everything looks sharp," smiled Pam Tanimura, the restaurant's employee of the month for September. "We want to make a great first impression when guests walk in."
Much to the chagrin of regular patrons, more and more people are finding out about Ocean House, quipped operations manager David Nagaishi.
"The secret's out that we're here," said Nagaishi, with a coy smile. "But our regulars wish we'd stop spreading the news. They want to keep it all to themselves."
Ocean House's plantation-like setting exudes nostalgic Hawaiiana, warmth and understated elegance. The restaurant sits on prime Waikiki beachfront real estate, making it a veritable jewel in the sand.
Eleven tables provide front-and-center ocean views but, truth be told, all seats here open to a stunning panoramic vista.
"The restaurant was designed this way," Groth said. "Personally, I like the back booths so I can get an overall feel of the room and still see the ocean."
And when guests aren't focused on the scene, their eyes are set on the cuisine, which chef Lester Omuro describes as Continental with Pacific Rim flair.
"When I first started, they had me try the prime rib," Omuro recalled. "I thought prime rib is prime rib. But after a single bite, I knew I was wrong. It was pure heaven."
The "Alii" is the king of cuts, weighing in at a hefty 16 ounces ($32). The thick slab of prime rib is rubbed with Hawaiian salt and slowly roasted in an electric imu. The result is a tender, mouthwatering cut of meat that melts in your mouth.
Equally tender is the beef tenderloin ($28), wrapped with applewood-smoked bacon and garnished with blue crab and Bearnaise sauce.
For a fine dining-caliber restaurant, Ocean House doesn't skimp on portions.
Appetizers, for example, can easily satisfy two appetites.
Popular is the fresh Island sashimi ($11), inch-thick slices of ahi tickle the taste buds and slide down the throat as easily as a fresh oyster.
A meatier option features spare ribs Kahala ($9), fire-roasted pork ribs slathered with a pineapple barbecue sauce. (Yes, it's OK to use your fingers to pick up the ribs!)
"I use Maui Gold pineapple because it's sweeter and less acidic," Omuro said. "It sweetens the barbecue sauce, but not too much."
Seafood fans won't be disappointed with the wide selection — seven to be exact — of Hawaiian fresh fish.
"We're the only restaurant that offers this many," Nagaishi asserted. "We have everything from whole snapper to opah to ahi to mahi mahi to hapuupuu (sea bass)."
They also have a pan-seared onaga ($28) that's topped with a shoyu-and-ginger vinaigrette then further enhanced with a citrus beurre blanc.
Gazing off into the horizon, Pam smiled, turned and said: "No matter how often I see it, every sunset here is always unbelievable."
David Nagaishi welcomes guests to the quaint private dining area.
