We are comforted to think that some things actually do improve with age. A common expression is "The older we get, the better we get." This might be true for humans, but unfortunately it is not the case when it comes to the vast majority of wines produced. In fact, more than 90 percent of the world's wines are made to be consumed within one to three years of their release. This is especially true for wines under $20. The current vintage releases for most wines are 2002, 2003 and 2004. This means that wines now available for purchase should be drunk now through 2006-08.

Some of the best age-worthy wines come from the "Old World," such as bordeaux (a blending of mostly cabernet and merlot), burgundy (chardonnay or pinot noir), "super Tuscan" (a blend), or barolo (nebbiolo). When the wine also comes from a great vintage, producer, and a great estate or vineyard, the wine will continue to improve in the bottle for 20 to 50 years. It is important to remember, however, that these wines are the exception, not the norm.

Wine is a living organism that continues to change with age. But will the change give it character, or will it cause the wine to become fruitless and stale?

For a wine to age well, it must have good structure and be stored well. A structured wine is balanced and has nice tannins with good acidity and fruit character. Storing your wines under the perfect conditions of 53 to 58 degrees at 65 percent humidity will allow premium wines (usually $20 and up) to become a bit more rounded, complex, integrated, perhaps even a little softer and silkier, but after three years, especially with white wines, it becomes a gamble. It is not sufficient — especially in Hawai'i — to leave your wines in the refrigerator (which is too cold) or on a wine rack in the closet (too warm).

There are many wines that collectors get excited about cellaring. But for most of us, our main concern is selecting a wine that is enjoyable now with dinner. If you want to dabble with aging some of your favorite wines, make sure the wine costs at least $25, comes from a great vintage, producer and region, is well made and is stored under perfect conditions. When your wine is ready to drink, drink it. Don't wait for that special occasion that never seems to come. If you wait too long, your wine may pass its prime without ever having been tasted.

Experiencing aged wine can be quite thrilling when the wine is meant for aging and very disappointing when it is not. Well-informed collectors know exactly when their cellared wines will reach their peak and patiently wait for that time to come, then experience the history and intensity communicated in every sip.

Older not always being better for wine is actually good news for us. The majority of wines we purchase on a daily basis are meant to be enjoyed right away. Here are a few examples. Cheers!