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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, September 11, 2005

COVER STORY
Mango season yields abundant fruit

Restaurateur Keo Sananikone emphasizes the point that Keo's does the "ordinary, extraordinarily well."

Photos by Randy T. Fujimori


Keo's in Waikiki

Where: 2028 Kuhio Ave.

Call: 951-9355

Hours: Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner

Parking: Valet parking in the evening is available. Plenty of self-parking is available during breakfast and lunch.

Early-Bird Special: Guests who come in between 5 and 6:30 p.m. will receive a 15-percent discount off their food. Look for the coupon in this week's Dining Out.

The fruits of his labor have literally come to fruition. Since June, restaurateur Keo Sananikone has reaped the rewards from a busier-than-usual mango season, leading him to develop new recipes that feature this sweet fruit.

"Our trees are loaded with mangoes this year," said Sananikone, who is said to have helped popularize Thai cuisine among Americans more than 28 years ago. "This is our best mango crop in years."

With trees on his farm still replete with mangoes, Sananikone said he'll continue to offer his special mango-infused dishes through September.

"We may even be able to offer them beyond September," he said. "That's how good this season has been."

Guests' responses to the specials have also been good, according to manager Fred Woo, who has been with Keo's for the past two decades.

"The fresh pan-fried ahi with mango salsa ($17.95) has been doing pretty well," he said. "It's half Thai, half Pacific Rim. And it's all good."

And so is the Thai coconut sticky rice that's topped with chilled slices of mango ($4.95).

"It tastes just like what you would get in Thailand. It's perfect for our warm weather," Woo said. "And we're also offering cool daiquiris and sorbet made with fresh mangoes."

Since taking the local, national and international dining scene by storm in 1977, a humble Sananikone continues to do the ordinary, extraordinarily well.

"This applies to the food, the service and the ambiance," said Sananikone, who opened the South King Street Mekong restaurant back in 1977, followed by the 1981 grand opening of Keo's in Kapahulu, which is predicted to win another Advertiser Ilima award this year.

"It's my favorite place to get vegetarian dishes," said Renee, a Leeward resident who asked that her last name not be used. "It's got the best selection and the best flavors."

These include such appetizers as the vegetarian crispy noodles ($5.95), mild vegetarian spring rolls ($7.95) and the satay tofu ($7.95).

While Keo's may look expensive with its tropical flowers, gilded Thai statues and celebrity "Wall of Fame," it's not.

Bartender Ivan Machiquchi pours guests ice-cold beer from the tap.
"I see a look of surprise come over people's faces once they see the menu," Woo said. "I don't think they expect to see such reasonable prices."

And many of them also don't expect to see New York steak with fries ($23.95), Western-style barbecue ribs ($14.95) and filet mignon with king crab legs ($46.95), dishes normally reserved for American-style steakhouses.

"Sometimes they're amazed that it's a Thai menu because of these dishes," Woo laughed. "But they're only three out of 60 dishes, the rest of which are Thai."

Panang and yellow curries ($11.95 to $13.95), green papaya salad ($6.95), Thai pad noodles ($9.95 to $14.95) and spicy lemongrass soup ($3.25) are some of the more popular selections here.

However, the must-try is the Jungle Evil Prince, which is THE dish that catapulted Sananikone to culinary stardom.

"A lot of Thai restaurants have copied the name," Sananikone said, without wanting to sound like he was bragging. "But I was the one to come up with it in 1977."