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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, September 14, 2005

Tall surf, turtles equal North Shore headache

 •  Big surf pumps South Shore, too

By Will Hoover
Advertiser North Shore Writer

The first big swell of the season yesterday brought out surfers to several North Shore spots including Sunset Beach. With the start of the big- wave season, concerns have surfaced about traffic along Kamehameha Highway — particularly at Laniakea, where turtles draw lots of attention.

BRUCE ASATO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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Guide books and tour operators have been promoting Laniakea Beach as a place to see turtles.

JOAQUIN SIOPACK | The Honolulu Advertiser

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J.K. Gillman and his wife, Lena, of Madison, W.Va., were among those who ventured to Sunset Beach yesterday to watch the big waves.

BRUCE ASATO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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HALE'IWA — It begins.

As it has begun for eons, the annual wave surge hit the North Shore yesterday — a little sooner than customary, and a lot less massive than it will surely become. But, as ever, it arrived.

"This is the kickoff swell of the winter," North Shore lifeguard Lt. John Hoogsteden said of yesterday's surge that brought 12-foot wave faces. "It could wax and wane. It might even flatten out. But over the next couple of months the surf will swell and bring in the giant waves that everyone comes here to see."

This year, though, it could also bring in a giant headache that has residents anxious: gridlock on Kamehameha Highway — the only road in and out of town.

With the annual North Shore visitor count topping more than 2 million, folks here are anticipating the largest crowd ever once this year's winter waves arrive with a vengeance.

Another big concern is that the surf watchers will usher in a tidal wave of turtle gawkers at Laniakea Beach, also known as Turtle Beach.

Already this summer — months before the huge surf and crowds arrive — turtle jams along the two-lane road next to Turtle Beach have stalled traffic, irritated motorists, endangered visiting pedestrians traipsing back and forth, and hampered emergency vehicles.

Some exasperated residents want to move the highway so it bypasses Turtle Beach.

North Shore Neighborhood Board member Carol Philips has advocated the idea on a "Save The North Shore" Web site.

"Moving the highway mauka ... is the only real, long term, common sense solution," the site says.

Yesterday, at 12:30 p.m. Philips watched from Laniakea Beach as what she calls the "daily nightmare" unfolded.

"Here we have a group of about a dozen Japanese visitors walking across the highway to see the turtles," she said. "And here's another bus load of tourists — and look — it's making a U-turn on the highway. And this is Tuesday, in the summer, the slow time on the North Shore."

Philips said the problem is not the visitors. They're merely here to see the attractions, such as the fabled North Shore waves. And now, guide books and tour operators increasingly promote the chance to see the 200-pound turtles lounging at Laniakea.

Yesterday, for example, Darren Homer and Jodi Richards, both 30, of South Island, New Zealand stood in the sands at Sunset Beach and marveled at the big waves.

"It's awesome," said Richards. "It's the first time we've ever seen the North Shore waves."

Following their glimpse of Sunset's famed surf break, the couple said they planned to visit Turtle Beach. "We read about it in our tour guide," said Homer.

Philips said Richards and Homer are more than welcome at Turtle Beach. She just wants their visit to be safe and not vexing to residents.

"We've always been very hospitable to visitors," she said. "It makes sense to accommodate them better. And also makes life more livable for ourselves. The way it is now is not doing either."

The idea of moving the road has not only garnered applause from North Shore residents. Lately the state Department of Land and Natural Resources has supported the concept.

Sam Lemmo, administrator of the Office of Conservation of Coastal Lands for the DLNR, is on the record as saying the road change near Turtle Beach presents "a unique opportunity" to preserve a precious coastal environment.

He says the plan could make sense considering the city plans to add two parks to the area, one across from Laniakea and another at Chun's Reef.

"At some point the Department of Transportation must have considered this (moving the road back)," he said yesterday. "I'm just thinking if they're considering it, this is the time to do it. Now it's open. The longer you wait, the more expensive and complicated it gets."

Scott Ishikawa, DOT spokesman, said the department is studying the road rerouting plan, but there are property rights issues that need to be worked out.

Philips conceded that the proposed road plan would call for it to cross over a small portion of Bishop Estate property, but she was confident that could be worked out.

She said she doesn't know if there is time to reroute the highway in time for this year's North Shore tourist surge. But she was adamant that the sooner it's moved, the better.

"This is the only way in and out of this community. I'm talking about safety for the visitors and about the quality of life for the residents."

Reach Will Hoover at whoover@honoluluadvertiser.com.