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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, September 18, 2005

THE INSIDE SCOOP
New chef offers 'egg'-citing dishes

By Simplicio Paragas
Dining Out Editor

Chef Guillaume Burlion's signature "egg" dish contains such delicacies as foie gras, lobster and truffles.

Photo by Randy T. Fujimori

Diamond Head Grill

Where: 2885 Kalakaua Ave., W Honolulu Hotel

Call: 922-3734

Hours: Dinner nightly from 6 p.m.

Parking: Validated

W hat's a "truffle egg?" Are conspiring foodies genetically manipulating truffles so they can produce eggs? Or, has Fabergˇ come out with a decorative line of so-called truffle eggs?

These questions jokingly came up as G.B. and I came across this curious menu description during a dinner at Diamond Head Grill.

The last time we checked, a truffle is a highly-prized fungus or a delectable confection. How is it possible then that either one could bear an "egg," as suggested on the menu?

We would discover the answer in the presentation. Yes, an egg was present, but it was an ordinary brown kind, which was cleverly used as the vessel for the presentation of the lobster-foie-gras-and-truffle appetizer ($16).

Resembling a soft-boiled egg that had part of its top removed, this lobster-foie-gras-and-truffle starter would tastefully live up to its intriguing name.

Our knowledgeable waiter Chris that night gave us a lesson on how to approach this dish. Steadily stooping over the egg, he carefully ladled out the contents and gingerly placed them on a small toast of brioche.

Or, he smiled, you can just dig in with the tiny spoon, which G.B. chose to do, rolling her eyes back as she savored each custard-like dollop filled with bits of lobster and foie gras. A tiny sliver of truffle was set beside the egg and we finally got it — a "truffle egg!"

Since assuming the executive chef position at Diamond Head Grill, Paris-trained and French national Guillaume Burlion has elevated the restaurant's menu to a level it hasn't seen since David Paul Johnson was at the helm here in 1998.

He has quickly adapted to "Island" cuisine, bringing to it his French techniques.

I was tempted by his ahi sashimi or tartar, but I couldn't pass up the potato ravioli ($14). The single large ravioli was stuffed with fork-tender braised veal and covered in a not-too-sweet Marsala sauce.

G.B. and I shared a towering Napoleon of vine-ripened heirloom-tomato-and-pineapple salad ($11), which was a delicious, gourmet take on ceviche or Island-style lomi lomi.

As we slunk back in our art deco-esque booth, we sipped on a glass of Chateau Musar that hails from the Bekka Valley in Lebanon. The cabernet blend was earthy with a smooth finish. It would end up being the perfect pairing with my Colorado rack of lamb.

G.B. was tempted to have two other appetizers in lieu of a full entree. After all, oysters on the half shell (two for $5) and seared foie gras ($18) are two of her favorite dishes.

In the end, though, she succumbed to the whole fresh lobster ($45). The meat was sauteed then artistically tucked back in the shell and served with a colorful array of vegetables, all surrounded by a pool of coral sauce. It tasted as good as it looked.

I couldn't decide whether to have the bison center cut filet mignon or the veal Wellington "my way." But I also wanted to try the Colorado rack of lamb ($39). It was a toss-up, so I asked Chris to let the chef make the decision.

Burlion chose the lamb, which was encrusted with black trumpet mushrooms then enhanced with a mint demiglace and accompanied by pommes soufflées — trés exquisite.

Burlion may be the new kid on the block, but expect him to rise in the local culinary ranks — and fast.