Some people consider themselves seafood lovers; others are admittedly seafood fanatics. The two could not be further apart, and the division between them resembles the political separation between residents of blue and red states during the last election.

Seafood lovers have restaurant commercials dedicated to them. Nationwide chain eateries target them with camouflaged marine fare, such as cod and shrimp, reduced to a bland chicken-like state. Preparations involve breading and deep-frying or smotherings of thick sauces. And melted butter as an accompaniment will probably never lose popularity for this group. Wave a whole shrimp with its head and shell on in front of these folks, and they turn away in abhorrence.

In contrast, seafood fanatics hang out at raw bars. Shellfish — mollusks and crustaceans alike — are a welcome sight to them. If the food happens to be practically alive, that's even better. The fresh taste of the ocean's briny sweetness is what they're after.

At the Poke Stop in Waipahu, chef-owner Elmer Guzman bridges the gap between these divergent parties, presiding like a judge over the Hatfield-McCoy Feud. The market-eatery blends right into the mini-mall complex in which it sits, except for its outside tarp covering two picnic tables and two smaller tables. Throughout the day, customers drive up and run in for their seafood fix.

Guzman grew up on Maui and epitomizes the dreams of many a local-boy cuisinier. He is an alumnus of the culinary arts program at Kapi'olani Community College, and graduated with high honors from the culinary apprenticeship program at the Greenbrier Hotel in West Virginia. Time spent under chef Alan Wong at Mauna Lani Bay Resort and Bungalows, as sous chef at Emeril's Restaurant in New Orleans and executive chef at Sam Choy's Diamond Head Restaurant, has honed his skills, which he couples with an understanding of Island tastes.

Using all of this background, Guzman has come up with a menu full of Island favorites, Creole influences and upscale touches in seafood selections that won't leave customers broke. Although seafood lovers will find many pleasing choices at the Poke Stop, I think fanatics will rejoice more here.

Guzman is the author of the "Shoreline Chef," a cookbook dedicated to the preparation of Hawai'i reef fishes, and his thorough knowledge of the subject is apparent at his shop. Not only does he offer an extensive variety of choices, but he also deftly shows how comfortable he is with his medium by his various preparations.

The Poke Stop's ama ebi (shrimp) are sinful the way potato chips are sinful, coated in seasoned cornstarch, then deep-fried to produce little poppers. It's difficult to stop at just one. You eat them whole — crunchy shell and head on — but gingerly, to avoid getting poked by antennae. Sold at market price by the pound, as are most items here, the shrimp were $9.95 a pound one day, and $10.95 another. A little grab-and-go box filled with what seemed like a lot of them (I lost count because I couldn't stop eating) cost $2.30.

Choosing what to eat was difficult because this is one of those places where I really wanted to try everything. I finally settled on a few items and would definitely return to eat most of them again and to taste what I missed. I didn't go for the bento-to-go options ($3.50 for a breakfast bento, the rest are $9.95 to $12.95) because I wanted my food prepared to order. It's tough to decide between changing daily specials and regular menu options, so try both. They are deals, and most include steamed rice with either tossed greens or Puna's red-potato salad (named for Guzman's mother-inlaw) made with bacon bits and hard-boiled eggs.

I went for a Po' Boy ($8) sandwich with fried oysters (also offered with shrimp). Large oysters were gently battered and fried, then stuffed into a soft 6-inch long sub roll. A slathering of homemade Hawaiian chili-pepper remoulade added just the right creamy kick. Tempura-fried spicy poke roll ($6.50) arrived with a spiked mayo that had received its own flavorfully hot addition of "bam!"

I also sampled mussels and clams in a velvety smooth, fragrant coconut-lemongrass broth ($8.95). I could have drunk a whole pot. A dark, complex gumbo ($6.95) loaded with clams, tiny shrimps and tender fish chunks was a stick-to-your ribs stewy dish with a scoop of rice and garnished by a deep-fried okra. The surf and turf ($9) combined boneless Korean-style short ribs with juicy whole jumbo garlic shrimp for diners who want their meat. They'll probably want even more of it after tasting how tender and expertly seasoned beef can be.

Guzman laughed and said that in a fine-dining restaurant, a customer could easily pay $40 for such cuisine. I was just relieved that I was paying much less and tasting more.

This is a family operation. Guzman's gracious wife, Samantha, will ring you up at the cash register and expertly tie your goodie bag, securing it for your car trip. Daughters Tatiana and Tatum will send you off with a warm goodbye and might even hold the door for you. Although the Poke Stop is just a glorified stop-and-go, it blows a lot of places that call themselves "restaurants" out of the water.

Reach Helen Wu at hwu@honoluluadvertiser.com.