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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, April 19, 2006

TASTE
English muffins hot off the griddle

 •  On the sweet course

Associated Press

English muffins, hot off the griddle, are at their best toasted and buttered, served with jam or marmalade.

Culinary Institute of America via Associated Press

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What makes a homemade English muffin better than store-bought?

Quality. It only takes one bite to realize that packaged varieties are very different from those made from scratch. Apart from being preservative-free, homemade English muffins come hot off the griddle —"baked" to perfection, light and crispy on the outside, soft and chewy in the middle.

Once you taste the difference, you won't settle for anything less.

English muffins are flat, yeast-raised breads prepared on the stovetop. There is no comparison to the cake-like American muffins that are leavened with baking soda or baking powder, loaded with sugar and garnishes, and baked in the oven.

Interestingly, if you look for an "English muffin" in Britain, you won't find one by that name. The term hails from the muffins made by an English immigrant, Samuel Bath Thomas, who prepared the first American English muffin at his New York bakery in 1880. Thomas used his mother's recipe.

While English muffins are at their best toasted and buttered liberally, they also provide an excellent base for sandwiches and eggs benedict. Savory spreads like mayonnaise and herbed cream cheese nestle into the muffins' nooks and crannies just as well as butter and jam do.

Use a muffin to build a hot, open-faced sandwich or a triple-decker piled high with meat, cheese and vegetables.

"There is one rule to remember when eating English muffins," says Marc Haymon, an instructor at the Culinary Institute of America. "In order to take full advantage of their light and spongy texture, it is essential to tear them apart with your fingers or the tines of a fork."

This recipe is from the Culinary Institute's "Breakfasts and Brunches" cookbook (Lebhar-Friedman, 2005, $35).

ENGLISH MUFFINS

  • 1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast

  • 1 cup water, warmed to 110 degrees

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour

  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

  • 1 teaspoon sugar

  • 1 teaspoon salt

  • 1/4 cup cornmeal, or as needed

  • Oil or solid vegetable shortening, as needed

    Place the yeast and warm water in a mixer bowl and stir to completely dissolve. Let the yeast proof until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add the flour, butter, sugar and salt. Mix the ingredients on low speed using the dough hook until well blended, about 2 minutes.

    Increase the speed to medium-high and mix until the dough is smooth, another 5 minutes.

    Shape the dough into a ball and place it into a lightly greased bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and let the dough rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 2 hours.

    Fold the dough gently over on itself in three or four places and turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface.

    Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces. Shape into rounds and place on sheet pans heavily dusted with cornmeal. Turn each muffin over to coat both sides with cornmeal. Cover until they have risen slightly, about 30 minutes.

    Preheat a griddle over medium heat and brush lightly with oil or shortening. Cook the muffins until lightly brown on the bottom, about 5 minutes. Turn them over and cook until golden brown, another 5 minutes.

    Split the muffins by pulling them apart with a table fork. Toast them just before serving.

    Makes 12 muffins.

  • Per muffin: 110 calories, 3 g protein, 18 g carbohydrate, 2.5 g fat, 200 mg sodium, 5 mg cholesterol, less than 1 g fiber.

    This recipe and more than 175 others are in the Culinary Institute of America's "Breakfasts and Brunches" cookbook (Lebhar-Friedman, 2005, $35), available at bookstores or www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/cookbooks.