In October, I was in Busan, South Korea's second-largest city. I was there for a friend's wedding and the Pusan International Film Festival, but something even more momentous happened. That's where I had one of the most delicious meals of my life.

Busan, for those who live to eat, is known for several culinary highlights. As a port city, you can imagine the emphasis on fresh seafood such as fish, abalone, squid, king crab, snow crab and all kinds of shellfish. Come 11 p.m., the beach walk — lined with restaurants' fish tanks — in front of the Paradise Hotel in Haeundae comes alive. You make your pick from the tanks, and your choice is grilled at your table.

During the film festival, it's a guarantee that you will find Korean stars dining at one of these restaurants. Another Busan specialty is blowfish — fugu in Japanese and bok in Korean — prepared in various ways.

If seafood is not your favorite, Haeundae kalbi is also well known. The meat is cut in a checkered pattern so it is extremely tender and easy to eat.

One day for lunch, a friend took me to a bulgogi restaurant that transported me to food nirvana. I kid you not. Its specialty is Onyang bulgogi.

Onyang is a town north of Busan and west of Ulsan. Known for its hot springs discovered 1,300 years ago, Onyang has been a spa stop for King Sejong and other royalty. The water temperature is around 135 degrees and it is known to be good for those who suffer from skin problems, liver disease, high blood pressure and arthritis. The region's five million tourists surely must be eating Onyang bulgogi when they're not soaking in the hot springs.

Fortunately for me, I didn't have to travel all the way to Onyang to sample the bulgogi. In the Kwang Ali area, there is a cluster of restaurants claiming to be the original Onyang bulgogi restaurant.

As I entered for lunch, 20 hallyu insiders — stars, managers and entertainment executives —were leaving. They all looked pleased and ready for an afternoon nap.

Bulgogi — also spelled bool go gi, bul go ki and bool goki — means fire (bool) and meat (go gi). Thin slices of tender rib-eye or sirloin are marinated in a sauce of shoyu, sesame oil, garlic and sugar, and then cooked over an open fire.

Onyang-style restaurant operators use a secret marinade recipe that they pass on only to their next-of-kin.

I had no idea what Onyang bulgogi was, but when I took the first bite, I realized why there are about eight restaurants on the same block serving the same food. The meat, smoky from the fire, was extremely tender, sweet and garlicky, with generous amounts of minced garlic melting in the mouth.

You get an apron because the fire tends to crackle when bits of meat and sauce hit the red charcoals. It was the best bulgogi I have ever tasted. Just when I thought the meal was over, the waitress came along, took away the grill and placed a hot pot right on the charcoal. In the pot was a special kim-chee stew.

I was trying to stay away from rice so I could put away more beef, but when the one-of-a-kind kim-chee stew came, I had to have rice — two bowls of it.

A meal in itself, the stew is cooked in a thick beef broth and is so popular that the restaurant has packaged it and sells it nationally. It was like Korean-style oxtail soup (much thicker than the local version), with kim chee infused into it.

My stomach was ready to explode after the meal. I had to stand up — sitting was uncomfortable with my new weight class. I had lunch there every day for the rest of my Busan stay.

THIS WEEK'S K-DRAMA SYNOPSES

'INFAMOUS CHILL SISTERS'

EPISODES 43 AND 44

Tonight at 7: Yangpal collapses and is taken to hospital. Deok-chill tries to call Seolchill, but Myongja stops her. Furious with Taeja's philandering ways, Jongchill pours her heart out to Seolchill.

Tonight at 8: Yangpal's condition worsens. Deokchill tries to recruit Soohan's help. Seontaek moves up Yangpal's surgery date with the help of his doctor friend.

'KOREA SECRET AGENCY'

EPISODES 15 AND 16

Tomorrow at 7:50 p.m.: There's an explosion at Club Havana. Kang, worried about Joo-yon's safety, moves back into her place. Chung Yun-hee continues her efforts to poach LK technology by trying to seduce Kang's brother Seon.

Tuesday at 7:50 p.m., final episode: Kang has earned the trust of Z, the head of the secret society National Conservative Movement. Z sends Kang and Chung Yun-hee to assassinate Kang Un-hyok.

'LOVE & AMBITION'

EPISODES 71 AND 72

Wednesday at 7:50 p.m.: Mi-ja and Tae-joon's family start to worry about Tae-joon's prolonged unemployed status. Tae-soo's business is on the verge of bankruptcy.

Thursday at 7:50 p.m.: Jung-ja is overcome with feelings when she sees Bong-jin peddling on the streets. But Bong-jin tells Jung-ja she did the right thing by leaving. Sang-woo confronts Mi-ja about her drinking.

'GREEN ROSE'

EPISODES 7 AND 8

Friday at 7:50 p.m.: Hyun-tae is relieved to hear the Chairman has no hope of recovering. Mr. Suh tries to hold Hyun-tae responsible for the crisis facing the company. Choon-bok helps Jung-hyun get a job.

Saturday at 7:50 p.m.: Hyun-tae lures Yoo-ran to the park, where she's kidnapped. Jung-hyun finds a battered Yoo-ran, and Yoo-ran finally tells him Hyun-tae framed him for the accident. Jung-hyun vows revenge.