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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, January 8, 2006

THE INSIDE SCOOP
Cousins blaze a trail in smokin' wagon

By Simplicio Paragas
Dining Out Editor

Filled with juicy prime meats, Kawika, left, son Kale and Kimo take their new "smoke wagon" on the road.

Photo by Randy T. Fujimori

Kimo's and Kawika's Smoke Wagon

Note: The smoker can be towed to private functions. For more information, call Kimo or Kawika at 226-7707.

It's part family picnic. It's part tailgate party. But it's all serious business for cousins James "Kimo" Akaka and Dave "Kawika" Dyas when they set up their new mobile smoker at local parking lots, beach parks or in people's backyards across Oahu.

Measuring approximately six-feet wide by five-feet tall by two-feet deep, this electric smoker has the capability to cook whole turkeys, chickens, ribs, pork loins, steaks and some of the juiciest prime rib I've ever tasted.

Rolling up the accordion, garage-door-like front of the smoker, a blast of heat and a distinct plume of smoky aroma escaped into the parking lot outside of Sushi King last Saturday. Inside, racks were filled with prime rib, turkeys and whole porkloins, all ready for customers — including G.B. and me — to pick up for a New Year's Eve feast.

"Those chicken gizzards are for me," smiled Kimo, who did the research in sourcing this smoker. "You've got to try it. The flavor speaks for itself."

And that it does.

Cooked to a medium rare temperature, our prime rib was coated in spices and cooked for 45 minutes.

Juices dripped from my chef's knife as I carved through the five- to six-pound cut of prime meat, making it almost unnecessary to ladle the accompanying au jus in a gravy boat. The horseradish, too, was superfluous. The meat easily stood on its own.

G.B., who normally doesn't care for prime rib, found herself asking for seconds. Meanwhile, our neighbor came knocking at our door the next morning asking for more. And even though he admitted overheating his slice, he said it was still good and maintained its smoky — and not burnt — flavor.

A trained executive chef turned private caterer, Kimo explained that this smoker works like a convection oven, evenly distributing hot air and thereby making it possible to cook multiple trays of meats in the cavity.

"It's a clean way of cooking," added Kawika, who pilots planes for Hawaiian Airlines when he's not towing the mobile smoker from one location to the next. "No messy charcoal or ashes to deal with when we're done."

Dumping a handful of hand-crafted wood pellets in a dispenser attached to the back of the smoker and then coming around to the front, Kawika pointed to a thermostat and said, "At this temperature, it'll take no time to cook a turkey or a whole prime rib."

While Kimo and Kawika focused on preparing turkey, prime rib and porkloin during the holiday season, the two are now setting up shop — starting this Thursday and Friday, from 10 a.m. — at Fort Ruger Market (3585 Alohea Ave., near KCC), where they'll dish out plate lunch specials, including ribs, chicken and steak. Or, people can come by and buy the meats by the pound.

"We're doing this now before everyone else jumps on the bandwagon," the cousins said. "It's the first of its kind on this Island."

And it's a smokin' great idea!