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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Sunday, January 29, 2006

COVER STORY
Waikiki eatery starts the year with a bang

Shun Zhen Rong and Brian Hee will help guests celebrate the New Year with fireworks and fine food.

Photos by Randy T. Fujimori

Seafood Village

Where: Hyatt Regency Waikiki Resort & Spa, 2424 Kalakaua Ave.

Call: 971-1818

Hours: Lunch daily from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m

Note: The restaurant can accommodate private parties of 10 to 60 people in one of three VIP rooms.

Web site: seafoodvillage.com

Dangling a long string of firecrackers, Seafood Village manager Gary Chan said he's ready to ward off evil spirits.

"An ancient Chinese myth says Nian — which is the kanji symbol for year — was a predator or some sort of monster," he said. "To scare it away, we light off fireworks. And if that doesn't work, we'll offer food."

The ubiquitous lion dance seen across the Island during this time of the year is another way to help stave off unwanted spirits, according to Tom Kirtley.

"We've got two lions scheduled to perform the traditional ceremony starting at 7 tonight," said Kirtley, Seafood Village's director of operations. "They'll help bring good luck for the upcoming year."

Eating dim sum is also widely believed to yield good fortune. Jin diu, for example, is prepared for the "Kitchen God," who oversees the family's welfare. The sesame ball must be prepared with a sweet filling in order to sweeten the god's tooth, thus ensuring the family's well being.

For New Year's lunch today, guests will be served jin diu along with other dim sum items, including manapua, nori spring rolls, pork hash, half moon and taro puff.

Priced at $10.95 per person for a minimum of 10 people, the set lunch menu will include roast duck with steamed buns, honey-garlic pork chops and seafood fried noodles.

"A lot of families started celebrating last night," Chan said. "And they'll continue for two more weeks. It's like the 12 days of Christmas, but ours is 15 days."

During this period, executive chef Qiao will not only prepare this festive lunch menu for 10, but he'll also offer a set dinner for $29.95 per person for a minimum of 10 people.

Dinner starts with a platter of assorted Chinese-style pupus, including roast duck, jelly fish, char siu and spring rolls.

Next, guests will be served family-style servings of dried scallop soup with bamboo fungus, live lobsters, house-special golden fried chicken, prawns topped with honey-glazed walnuts and steamed rice mixed with lup cheong (Chinese sausage) and bits of pork belly.

"Chef also prepares an innovative spicy scallop roll," Chan said. "Even though it's made with a lot of different ingredients, it still has a well-balanced flavor."

Widely known as monk's food, jai is a common New Year's staple. This vegetarian stew is prepared with mushrooms, assorted vegetables, bits of tofu and long rice (bean thread noodles).

Juan Wong opens a jar of rose tea, which smells just like the flower.
Dinner ends with mochi dumplings steeped in a sweet soup. Like the Japanese, the Chinese, too, regard the glutinous ball as rendering strength and prosperity.

Coming off a banner year, Kirtley hopes for continued — and hopefully increased — success during the Year of the Dog.

"Thanks to our loyal patrons, we had a great year last year," he said. "Their gracious support is always appreciated."

In addition to the two special New Year's menus, Seafood Village's regular lunch and dinner a la carte menus will be available. Guests can choose from a wide array of authentic Cantonese cuisine.

"Get your lei si (red envelope) ready," Kirtley said, "and bring home good luck to you and your family."