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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, June 4, 2006

Bolder cuisine starting to perk up Americans' diets

By John Schmeltzer
Chicago Tribune

CHICAGO — Traditionally, Americans have liked their food and beverages flavored the way they liked their political candidates: moderate, not too bold.

So it's no wonder that McDonald's Corp. made news this year when it began offering a spicy chicken sandwich that was truly spicy. It's also why such a cautious food purveyor as OSI Inc. is making a splash with a product like jalapeno cheddar hamburgers.

Bolder flavors are selling, according to experts at the National Restaurant Show, held last month in Chicago.

It doesn't matter whether it is a spicy pulled-pork sandwich by Tyson Foods, Pomegranate Punch from Coca-Cola, India Pale Ale from Goose Island Brewery or Wasabi Lime mustard from Terrapin Ridge in Freeport, Ill.

Restaurateurs have been telling their food-service suppliers that their customers want something that "pops."

Much of the increasing demand stems from the influence of Latin American and Asian immigrants, who want more than the traditional American bland.

"What the smart restaurant operators are doing are taking ethnic flavors and incorporating them into their menus," said Brian Averna, corporate executive chef for Sara Lee Corp.

"Even little kids are being programmed to eat very, very bright flavors," he said, and as a result, kids are expecting stronger flavors in their foods.

While the immigrant wave is driving some of the demand, Averna said aging baby boomers also are seeking stronger flavors. Such flavors appeal to their palates, Averna said, because people's taste buds tend to die as they age.

In the past, the food-service and restaurant industry would add salt to the food. Now chefs are adding spices to boost the flavor, he said.

Restaurant experts agree that most food trends begin in white-tablecloth restaurants and trickle down to fast-food restaurants and grocery stores. As a result, food-service and restaurant companies try to offer flavors that will bring consumers back.

McDonald's spent nearly 18 months fine-tuning its spicy chicken sandwich launched in January.

Besides spicy, flavors such as teriyaki, lavender and orange-lemon are developing a following.

The Coca-Cola Co. is seeking help from the Culinary Institute of America to develop a variety of bolder-flavored recipes using Coke products.

Among the drinks coming off the Coke line are Sprite Orange Bubbly, which blends orange juice with sprite and club soda; Coca-Cola Spice, which blends Coke, Pibb Extra, pineapple juice and rum-flavored syrup; and Pomegranate Punch, a blend of Bacardi rum with pomegranate juice, Sprite and lemonade.

Nancy Keating, an owner of Keating/Severson Hospitality, says that not all spicy products go over well at her restaurant, the Alamo Steak House and Saloon, in Mattoon, Ill.

"Down there in corn-fed country, they will order a Cajun dish and scrape off the Cajun seasoning," she said.

But it may not be entirely because they don't like spicy food.

"Our chili will bring tears to your eyes," she said.