Wake up early in Kailua and you'll be treated to the beautiful sunrise over the Mokuluas.

But residents really wake up at the town's coffee shops, especially those that are independently owned. They'll patronize a coffee chain, but they also have vehemently resisted gentrification. "Keep it Kailua" bumper stickers appear at barely sub-annoying levels, and residents return to their locally owned shops religiously.

We headed for the popular morning stops to check out the ambiance and scene, and to try their special, frappe-frilly drinks, as well as their average cup of joe.

MORNING BREW

572 Kailua Road

6 a.m.-8 p.m. daily

Wi-fi: Free

Frilly, sugary drinks: We tried the Krakatoa and the German Mokka. Very sweet, yet somehow clean and pleasant.

Average joe: Smooth, clean, pleasant. There's a trend here.

Around for just more than a decade, Morning Brew has earned its place as the coffee shop in Kailua. Its staff is friendly, its customers loyal and the place self-serves a fine coffee. With an ever-growing menu — try the tuna wrap — Morning Brew still remembers that the key is still good cuppa joe. Free wireless Internet access doesn't hurt. Situated in the Kailua Shopping Center and decorated with paintings by local artists, the atmosphere is quirky and cool, but with the relaxed vibe of a cafe that doesn't need to try too hard. Morning Brew will likely remain a fixture in Kailua for years to come.

MUDDY WATERS ESPRESSO

Aikahi Shopping Center

25 Kane'ohe Bay Drive

5:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, to 10 p.m. Fridays

6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturdays, to 9 p.m. Sundays

Wi-fi: $6 an hour

Frilly, sugary drinks: White Chocolate Mocha — enough said.

Average joe: Go early while the coffee is fresh, or you may get something that tastes a lot like what's served next door at Burger King.

Even if you do go early, go at night, too. At 7 every night except Sunday, Muddy Waters hosts free music. Good free music. And there's plentiful outdoor seating. In a town where the nightlife consists of dollar movies, almost-second-run art-house movies, and a Jack in the Box drive-through, Muddy Waters sets itself up, deservingly, as a cultural center of this quiet Windward suburb. You'll find it in the Aikahi Shopping Center — a small, simple shop adorned with fliers and posters of upcoming musical events and community publications. It's hip without pretense.

KALAPAWAI MARKET

306 S. Kalaheo Ave.

6 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Wi-fi: None

Frilly, sugary drinks: Not advertised as much as they should be. We tried the white chocolate frozen moccachino. Great cool-down desserts on a hot day.

Average joe: The choices change daily. Just look for the freshly made pots. I tried the standard but tasty Kona Blend.

Kalapawai is working on a cafe/deli, complete with indoor seats. But who needs fancy? This is an old-style general store, and while the only seats are outdoors, the beach is right in back. Loyal patrons from Kailua and Lanikai show up every morning to choose from six types of coffee brewed each day. Kalapawai is the perfect place to grab a solid latte after a sunrise walk.

Don't forget, Kailua isn't immune to the Island itch for chains.