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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, November 8, 2006

TASTE
Chris Miura's method for baking real-deal pizza at home

 •  Beginnings of the bread man

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Campagne bread — that's French-style country bread — baked by bread maker Chris Miura at his home in Maunalani Heights.

ANDREW SHIMABUKU | The Honolulu Advertiser

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BREAD TIPS

  • Use the best, freshest ingredients you can afford

  • Slow, cool fermentation (rising) is superior to warm, fast rising

  • Less yeast, longer rising produces a superior flavor

  • Bread should be at 73 to 75 degrees when it's shaped

  • Use ice water in mixing to retard temperatures on a hot day

  • If dough has risen too long, knead and rise again

  • In our climate, sourdough starters need more frequent feeding

    Source: Chris Miura

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    BREAD-BAKING TOOLS TO USE

    The only tool below that's

    a must is the first one, but the others are helpful.

  • Instant-read thermometer is the best way to detect bread doneness

  • Wooden peel for moving bread in and out of oven

  • Pizza stone for conducting heat to artisanal breads and pizza

  • SAF-instant brand, professional-grade yeast made to French standards

  • Banneton (bah-neh-tohn) reed basket, imprints bread with characteristic pattern

  • Lame (lahm) razor holder used to slash dough before baking

  • Couche (koosh) linen used to hold and separate loaves while rising

  • Point-and-shoot

    infrared thermometer for detecting temperature inside oven

    On The Web: Find these at some kitchen supply stores or at www.kingarthurflour.com.

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    NO COMMERCIAL OVEN?

  • Place oven thermometer in oven to check accuracy

  • Invest in a pizza stone, and place it in the oven before preheating

  • Preheat the oven 1 hour before baking

  • For pizza and artisanal breads, bake right on the pizza stone

  • Alternatively, line oven with unglazed tiles

  • Create steam by misting oven walls (NOT bread or oven light bulb) in the first 10-15 seconds

  • Better yet, place a

    cast iron pan on the bottom shelf and fill it with boiling water just before baking

  • A wooden peel is nice to slide bread on, off the stone

  • Use an oven thermometer to determine doneness (190-210 degrees)

  • The richer the dough, the higher the internal temperature for doneness

    Sources: Chris Miura, baking911.com

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    Chris Miura generally uses his special sourdough starter when making pizza at home — a meal so frequent in the Miura household that the kids know how to shape their own pizzas. But for the home cook who lacks both sourdough starter and a wood-burning oven in the backyard, he offers this recipe for a basic pizza dough.

    Don't be put off by the two-day process — just plan ahead. You need spend only 15 minutes or so the first day, quickly assembling the dough, which then rests overnight in the refrigerator, giving the yeast a chance to work slowly and develop a deeper flavor.

    You will need a pizza stone, and it's nice to have a pizza peel (the long-handled wooden "spatulas" used by pizza bakers) — or, lacking that, you can use an overturned cookie sheet.

    HOMEMADE PIZZA

  • 1 packet Fleischmann's or Red Star active dry yeast

  • 1 cup water

  • 1 tablespoon honey

  • 3 cups all-purpose flour (not sifted)

  • 1 tablespoon salt

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

  • Flour

  • Cornmeal

    DAY 1

    If you have a stand mixer: Place water, yeast and honey in the mixing bowl and stir with a whisk or fork until yeast dissolves. This should take 5 seconds and does not require warm water. Next, add the flour, salt and olive oil. Attach the dough hook and mix the dough at speed 4 (medium) for 10 minutes. The dough should be smooth and almost silky. Place the dough ball in a plastic or glass bowl that has been lightly oiled. The bowl should be about three times bigger than the dough ball. Cover with plastic and refrigerate overnight.

    If you're mixing by hand: In a large bowl, combine the yeast, water and honey. Place flour, salt and olive oil in bowl. Mix together by hand to make a dough ball. Lightly flour counter or table and place dough on top. Knead dough, folding it over on itself and pushing down on the dough with the heels of the hands for about 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth.

    DAY 2

    One hour before baking, place the pizza stone in the oven and preheat the oven to its highest temperature (500 degrees for most ovens).

    Remove dough from refrigerator about 1 hour before baking, cut in half and leave it on a lightly floured table covered with plastic.

    When oven is preheated and dough is at room temperature, sprinkle a handful of flour on a counter or table. Place one dough ball on the floured area and roll to coat both sides with flour. Press and flatten into a 12-inch, thin circle; you may use hands or rolling pin. Sprinkle a pizza peel or an overturned cookie sheet with cornmeal and transfer dough round to peel or sheet. Shake slightly to see if the pizza slides easily on the cornmeal; if it sticks, remove dough and add more cornmeal underneath. Top dough round with desired sauce and toppings (see below).

    Slide the pizza onto the pizza stone, starting from the back of the stone and pulling the peel or sheet toward you. Bake, checking frequently, until pizza is nicely browned. It won't take long. Continue with remaining dough.

    Makes 16 pieces (8 per each pizza).

  • Per serving (dough only): 210 calories, 2.5 g fat, no saturated fat, no cholesterol, 900 mg sodium, 41 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 2 g sugar, 5 g protein

    Pizza sauce is a matter of personal taste — some like conventional, American-style red sauces; others prefer just a sprinkling of cheese and herbs. Miura says homemade is best. Whatever you use, take the Italian approach: Don't pile the pizza high, which results in thick, soggy layer, but rather paint a thin layer of sauce over the dough and top it sparingly with the best-quality ingredients you can afford.

    Here is Miura's quick homemade pizza sauce. With it, use cheese that melts readily, such as mozzarella; thinly sliced fresh heirloom tomatoes; fresh herbs such as basil and oregano; and finish with sprinkling of salt and pepper. Place fresh chopped basil over pizza just after baking, and serve.

    QUICK HOMEMADE PIZZA SAUCE

  • 1 tablespoon of olive oil

  • 3 cloves garlic

  • 1/2 medium onion diced

  • 1 tablespoon of olive oil

  • 1 (16-ounce) can good-quality crushed tomatoes (i.e., Progresso brand)

  • 1/4 cup fresh chopped basil leaves

  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

  • Salt

  • Pepper

    In a saute pan, heat olive oil over medium heat and saute garlic and onion until garlic is golden and onion is limp. Add crushed tomatoes, basil, oregano, salt and pepper to taste. Reduce heat and simmer sauce until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Sauce can be made day ahead and refrigerated.

    Makes 8 (1/2 cup) servings.

  • Per servings: 60 calories, 3.5 g fat, 0.5 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 75 mg sodium, 5 g carbohydrate, 1 g fiber, no sugar, 1 g protein

    Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.