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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, November 26, 2006

Walk between Washingtons quaint

By Leigh Lambert
Washington Post

The gardens at the Inn at Little Washington in Washington, Va., where a six-course meal can set you back $168, awaits after a trek from D.C.

TIM TURNER | Washington Post

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IF YOU GO ...

Washington, D.C.:

  • Herb Cottage, Washington National Cathedral, Wisconsin and Massachusetts avenues NW. (202) 537-8982. www.cathedral.org

    Falls Church, Va.:

  • State Theatre, 220 N. Washington St., (703) 237-0300. www.thestatetheatre.com

  • German Gourmet, 7185 Lee Highway, (703) 534-1908. www.german-gourmet.com

  • H Mart, 8103 Lee Highway, (703) 573-6300. www.hmart.com

    Centreville, Va.:

  • Jamie's General Bean, 13848 Lee Highway, (703) 815-6880. www.generalbean.com

    Warrenton, Va.:

  • Veirs Studio Glass and Gallery, 5197 Lee Highway, (540) 347-2220. www.veirs.com

  • Old Jail Museum, Courthouse Square, (540) 347-5525. www.townofwarrenton.com

    Washington, Va.:

  • Inn at Little Washington, Middle and Main streets, (540) 675-3800. www.theinnatlittle washington.com. The inn and restaurant are open year-round. Six-course dinners cost $138 to $168. Gift shop is open Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m.-8 p.m.

  • Fairlea Farm Bed and Breakfast, 636 Mount Salem Ave., (540) 675-3679. www.fairleafarm.com

  • Packing Shed Gallery, Gay and Porter streets, (540) 675-3410. www.packingshedgallery.com

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    On a lark, I decided to walk from Washington to Washington — or, more specifically, from my house in the District of Columbia to the Inn at Little Washington in Virginia's Rappahannock County. I paced out the 75 miles over three days, burning enough calories to justify an indulgent meal at the venerable restaurant.

    The trip is not for everyone; some people are short on time, while others have weak ankles. But there is an alternative: Drive the route — because you never know what, or who, you might see along the way.

    Start off at the Herb Cottage, a small gift store on the grounds of the Washington National Cathedral. Holiday shoppers can choose from cards, soaps, herbs and garden decorations; non-shoppers can pass the time in the tranquil Bishop's Garden.

    Hit the highway and head to Falls Church, Va., where you can pop into H Mart on Lee Highway (Route 29) and see how bad a durian fruit really smells. The Korean market is the size of a regular supermarket and sells such edibles as roasted seaweed, live abalone and all kinds of produce, in addition to beauty products and appliances. Or you can stock up on steins, then fill them with German brew, at the German Gourmet, also on Lee Highway.

    For Falls Church nightlife, go to the State Theatre. The music venue opened as a movie house in 1936, closing in 1988 (the farewell show was "Die Hard").

    A little farther down Lee Highway, you can give your morning coffee a jolt with exotic beans — Ethiopian Longberry Harrar, Tanzanian Peaberry — from Jamie's General Bean in Centreville.

    In Warrenton, the star of the Veirs Studio Glass and Gallery is resident artist Tom Veirs, who creates exquisite bowls, vases and roundels in lollipop colors. But A.J. the Devil Dog, a long-haired dachshund, gets equal attention. Despite his name, A.J. is as welcoming as Tom, who will show you his projects and explain the glassmaking process.

    While in Warrenton, stop by the Old Jail Museum and pick up a map for a self-guided walking tour. Besides the jail, historical sights include the Fauquier County Courthouse (or Old Courthouse), where future chief justice John Marshall was first licensed to practice law, and Warrenton Cemetery, burial site of John S. Mosby, aka the Gray Ghost of the Confederacy.

    You'll know you're in small-town Washington when you can find good conversation, artwork and video rentals under one roof. The Packing Shed Gallery, an old apple warehouse, has a woodworking studio, where Andrew Smith hammers away on boats.

    Locals refer to the Inn at Little Washington as "the Inn." Visitors know it as the place to drop up to $168 per person on dinner. However, even those on an Applebee's budget won't go home hungry. The property's gift shop sells granola, bread and other sundries, so you can still brag that you've eaten at "the Inn."

    For lodging, you can count sheep (two) at Fairlea Farm Bed and Breakfast, a working farm.