Cook spinach in large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, about 1 minute. Drain. Squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Chop spinach. Mix spinach, ricotta, 1/2 cup parmesan, flour, egg yolks, salt, pepper and nutmeg in large bowl until slightly sticky dough forms.

Dust large rimmed baking sheet with flour. Using floured hands, roll 1/4 cup dough between hands and work surface to 5-inch-long rope. Cut rope into 1-inch pieces. Roll each piece between palms to form oval. Transfer gnocchi to prepared baking sheet. Repeat rolling, cutting and shaping with remaining dough.

Working in batches, cook gnocchi in large pot of boiling salted water until gnocchi rise to surface and are cooked through and tender, about 5 minutes (check at 4 minutes). Using large strainer or slotted spoon, remove gnocchi from water; drain. Place in serving dish.

Pour butter over gnocchi; toss to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup parmesan.

Serves 8 as a first course.

This Paul Bertolli recipe is adapted from one that originally appeared in Bon Appétit. You can serve them simply as an appetizer course or as an entree with ragu sauce.

POTATO GNOCCHI

Topping (optional):

Steam potatoes over boiling water until tender, about 12 minutes. Working in batches, press warm potatoes through ricer into large bowl (or place warm potatoes in large bowl and mash finely with potato masher). Cool until lukewarm, about 10 minutes. Add egg, cream, salt and nutmeg and blend well. Add 1 1/2 cups flour and mix until soft and slightly sticky dough forms, adding more flour by tablespoonfuls if too moist.

Turn dough out onto lightly floured work surface. Divide into 6 equal portions. Gently roll 1 dough portion between hands and work surface to 3/4-inch-thick rope about 20 inches long. Cut into 3/4-inch-long pieces.

Roll each piece over wires of slender whisk or dinner fork to make grooves in gnocchi. Arrange gnocchi in single layer on floured baking sheet. Repeat with remaining 5 dough portions.

Cook one-third of gnocchi in large pot of boiling generously salted water until gnocchi rise to top and are cooked through and tender, about 5 minutes (check at 4 minutes). Using large strainer or slotted spoon, transfer gnocchi to large baking pan; arrange gnocchi in single layer. Cook remaining gnocchi in 2 batches. (Gnocchi can be prepared ahead. Let stand 1 hour at room temperature, or cover and refrigerate up to 2 days.)

To serve, heat 1/2 cup melted butter in a very large skillet and cook gnocchi, tossing often, until heated through, about 8 minutes. Serve with parmesan cheese if desired, or over your favorite sauce or beef ragu.

Serves 6 as an appetizer.

This sauce is often paired with gnocchi, the sharp cheese nicely balancing the subtle flavor of the dumplings. This recipes makes enough sauce for 8 appetizer servings. It's from "Trattoria: The Best of Casual Italian Cooking," by Mary Beth Clark.

GORGONZOLA CREAM SAUCE

In a frying pan over high heat, bring the cream to a boil. Boil until slightly thickened, about 4 minutes. Stir in the cheese and reduce the heat to medium. Stir in the wine and simmer for 1 minute. Stir in the brandy, if using. Season to taste with salt, white pepper and nutmeg.

Drain the gnocchi and immediately add them to the sauce. Toss well to coat. Spoon onto warmed individual plates and serve immediately.

Makes 8 appetizer servings.