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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, October 11, 2006

RAISE A GLASS
Wine in moderation for health

 •  Don't knock gnocchi

Raise a glass
By Cynthia Fenner

SOME TO TRY

Palmina Botasea Rose '05: 13.5 percent alcohol; $26

Joh. Jos. PruŽm '03 Spatlese: 8.5 percent alcohol; $45

Laetitia Brut Rose NV: 12.5 percent alcohol; $28

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A glass or two of wine at dinner is a good idea, yes? A 1991 "60 Minutes" episode speculating about why French people could eat high-fat foods, smoke more, exercise less and still have fewer heart attacks than Americans (a phenomenon known as the French paradox), gave credence to this idea. The doctors interviewed in the show believed a moderate intake of alcohol can help prevent heart disease. There is also evidence that alcohol in moderation may help protect against type 2 diabetes and gallstones.

But the downside is that drinking may lead to an increased incidence of some forms of cancer because your body is almost always fighting off cancer cells. If your body's filtration system (the liver) is constantly processing alcohol, it cannot function at full capacity to filter out toxins.

October is breast cancer awareness month. As a breast cancer survivor, this topic is important to me. My first oncologist told me that I should never have a glass of wine again. This was not an option for me as wine is not only my passion but my career. So what is a person to do?

I am in no way a medical expert, but I have found a few ideas that work for me. To limit your intake and the stress on your system, spread out your wine consumption over the course of the week. One or two glasses a night with dinner is better than a bottle on the weekend. I have also realized that wine from France and the Old World have a much lower alcohol content, so a Burgundy, Bordeaux or German Riesling are both a better match with food and will not leave your head pounding the next day.

At Palmina Winery in Lompoc, Calif., Chrystal Clifton has a project that is not only delicious but supports a great cause. Botasea is a dry rosé made from dolcetto, nebbiolo and barbara grapes that Clifton dubbed "pink wine for the pink ribbon." This wine has a bright extracted color and a bouquet of cherry and rose petals, notes of orange peel. It is crisp and refreshing — a perfect match to our local cuisine. Part of the proceeds from each bottle goes to fund breast cancer research through the Susan B. Love foundation.

A glass of champagne is a great way to celebrate. At around 12 percent alcohol, it is also easy to drink. My all-time favorite is Laurent Perrier Rose. It is crisp, with lively bubbles and hints of fresh fruit such as strawberry. If you don't want to spring for a true French champagne, Laetitia Rose is a great value.

Germany's 2003 rieslings were ripe and bursting with fruit and acidity. My current favorite is the Joh. Jos. PruŽm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese, which comes in at 8.5 percent alcohol.

So raise a glass to health and longevity and remember: all things in moderation.

Cynthia Fenner is the wine specialist for Epicure at Neiman Marcus.