The holidays are just around the corner, which means parties and potlucks. Every year I am constantly on the lookout for healthy pupu — so many party foods are deep fried and unhealthy.

On a recent trip to China, I came across a great recipe that is a perfect taste treat to start any meal. It takes a little preparation, but it is certainly well worth the trouble. The ingredient that I love most is the dried Chinese black mushrooms. The full-bodied flesh of the mushroom makes it seem like you are eating meat.

Chinese black mushrooms are sometimes called shiitake or forest mushrooms. They used to be imported from Japan and Korea, but they are now being cultivated in the United States as well. California, Pennsylvania, Vermont, Washington, Virginia and other states grow shiitake they call "golden oak." Fresh shiitake are the most plentiful in the spring and autumn.

The caps of the mushroom are dark brown, sometimes marked with tan striations. Cap sizes range from 3 to 6 inches in diameter. You can find fresh shiitake in the produce section, as well as dried in the Asian food section of the supermarket.

Dried mushrooms produce a stronger and more pungent flavor. Usually they are reconstituted in warm water, but I like to speed it up by using boiled water. After 10 minutes of soaking, the caps are soft enough to slice. Although the stems are still tough, they can be reserved to season stock and sauces (just pop 'em in the freezer). Shiitake are great for stir frying, broiling and baking.

(Hint: To shave fresh ginger, peel it, then use one of the ultra-sharp Microplane-type shavers.)

CHINESE BLACK MUSHROOM AND TOFU LETTUCE CUPS