With something indulgent appearing on the office share table several times a day, and an urge to bake this holiday season, I've been trying to lighten up at lunchtime. The other day at a Times grocery store deli on Beretania, I spotted a gorgeous "Avocado Salad Roll."

Presented in two slant-cut halves in a plastic container ($4.49), it was composed of the thinnest imaginable slices of avocado, leaf lettuce, purple cabbage, fingers of avocado and cucumber and, at the center, julienned carrots, all held together by a single sheet of tapioca paper (similar to Vietnamese banh trang, rice paper sheets), with a packet of sweet chili sauce alongside.

This sandwich substitute was refreshingly delicious — somewhere between a Vietnamese goi cuon (spring roll) and a Thai-style lettuce wrap.

When I made my own version at home, I added pressed, marinated tofu. You could also use steamed shrimp or slices of poached or roast meats. If you had avocado at the perfect degree of firm ripeness, you could try shaving them with a mandoline to make slices thin enough to replicate the original — or skip it.

For fillings, consider avocado, Korean pear, jicama, cucumber, bean sprouts, blanched rice vermicelli, spicy watercress tips, mint, Thai basil or cilantro, blanched chives.

SALAD ROLLS