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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, December 19, 2007

RAISE A GLASS
It's time to pop the cork on special wines

 •  For the love of chocolate

By Kim Karalovich

The holidays are here and so is our excuse to break out those special-occasion wines. Not many of us can afford spending $30 to $50 a bottle every time we feel like having a glass of wine, but if you are a wine lover like me, the holidays are a perfect excuse to splurge a little and treat yourself to a really nice, satisfying, scrumptious wine.

Here are a few recommendations to entice you into pampering your taste buds, and it all starts on Christmas Eve.

I enjoy sipping a full-bodied red wine on Christmas Eve while unwinding from the pre-Christmas madness, sitting in front of my fake Charlie Brown Christmas tree. A very enjoyable full-bodied wine is Ilano ($42), a blend of 80 percent cabernet and 20 percent syrah. The wine has big, bold flavors of cherry, plum, currant, sweet spice and a touch of mocha on the finish. The tannins are smooth and supple, making it quite delicious to sip while relaxing, looking over gifts and pondering what Santa has brought.

Christmas Day is just not the same without a champagne brunch (at least for the adult children). I like to avoid the crowded restaurants and instead cook a brunch at home. My Christmas brunch would not be complete without rose sparkling wine because it is a bit richer in flavor than a young brut, which allows it to stand up better to a brunch selection of foods. Rose wines are pink because the fruit hangs out for a short period of time with the red grape skins. In general, the longer the fruit stays in contact with the skin, the more the color and flavor will be expressed.

One of my favorite California sparkling roses is J Rose Sonoma ($33). It is a blend of 69 percent pinot noir, 29 percent chardonnay and 2 percent pinot meunier. J Brut Rose sparkles a cool pink hue and expresses aromas of strawberry, and apple with the flavors of cherry, blood orange and citrus peel and great acidity with a lingering finish. A wonderful rose champagne (sparkling wine can only be called champagne when the grapes are actually from the Champagne region) is Chartogne-Taillet Rose Champagne ($52). It screams of flavor yet is very delicate with creamy brioche, wild berry, red mountain apple with wonderful acidity and exciting bubble intensity. Supplies are limited, and at this price for such a tasty rose, it will be gone quickly. Try the sparkling rose with scrambled eggs with Gruyere cheese, ham, bacon, onions, garlic and a dollop of sour cream.

Another great Christmas brunch or dessert wine is Bug Juice Moscato d'Asti ($19). Moscato d'Asti is the perfect wine for aunties who don't really drink much but enjoy a sip or two. Pour them a glass of Bug Juice and you will be amazed at how quickly the glass empties. It is only 5 percent alcohol with lots of peach, apricot and orange blossom flavors, with the tiny delicate bubbles referred to as frizzante.

Christmas dinner is another great occasion to enjoy some nice wine with family and friends. As a starter, I enjoy prosecco, a sparkling wine from Italy. I find that more people enjoy prosecco than champagne (I enjoy both, but champagne rocks my world), because prosecco is not as dry and you can better taste ripe flavors of pear and apple. Two of my favorites include a drier style Le Bellerive Prosecco ($16.99). This prosecco is a favorite among champagne connoisseurs because it displays some minerality and has great acid structure with flavors of green apple and bartlett pear. Ruggeri & C Gold Label ($15.99) is also delicious and very different in style. It is not as dry and the acidity is a bit lower while the fruit is riper, like poached pear and golden delicious apple.

Pinot noir and syrah are the perfect guests to include while enjoying Christmas dinner. Pinot noir is excellent with ham, turkey, smoked salmon or even prime rib. Foxen Pinot Noir ($34) is a fruit-forward delicious wine with sweet spice like cinnamon cola, with flavors of raspberries, cherries and a touch of earthiness. It is supple and velvety in the mouth.

Syrah is another interesting wine choice for Christmas dinner, especially if roasted lamb is on the menu. Penner Ash 2005 Syrah ($36) is a favorite of mine this month. It displays lavender, black pepper and wild strawberry aromatics, with a lush rich palate of toasted almond, blueberry and vanilla wood flavors. The supple tannins integrate into a lingering, savory finish.

So this holiday season, splurge a little on yourself and pick a wine with a little more complexity and flavor intensity. You deserve it!

For a complimentary splurge wine tasting, join us at The Wine Stop from 1 to 5 p.m. Dec. 22, featuring Kistler Chardonnay and ZD cabernet and my Christmas Eve pick, Ilano cabernet and syrah blend, plus a few other staff favorites.

Cheers!

Kim Karalovich operates The Wine Stop with Liane Fu. Reach them at www.thewinestophawaii.com or 946-3707.

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