Tasmania is all about wildlife, nature, fresh produce and wines, and a colorful history, some of it ugly — the brutal treatment of convicts in the 19th century and annihilation of the Aborigine population. There are environmental scars, too, from logging and strip-mining.

But the heart-shaped chunk of land, discovered by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman in 1642, is also one of the last great wildernesses on earth and Tassie's latitude, 150 miles south of Australia, one of its greatest assets. Here are vast tracts of unspoiled forest sheltering some of the oldest trees on Earth, pristine beaches, ancient mountains and a bizarre cast of animal characters found nowhere else on the planet, all in a temperate climate comparable to America's Pacific Northwest.

And because we like island destinations, Tasmania fit our ideal vacation model: days of bush walks and exploring, followed by great food and wines to round off the evenings. So with walking in mind, we resisted the urge to see it all and settled instead for at least two nights in each place to decompress, chat with friendly hosts, take off on car safaris if we chose, sample some of the best oysters anywhere and yet still came home to O'ahu feeling we'd covered a lot of ground and found the solitude and magnificence Tasmania has to offer.

CRADLE MOUNTAIN: STALAGMITES AND STALACTITES

Dripping rainforests of Tasmanian myrtle, beech and pandanus trees, framed by jagged mountains, make up Cradle Mountain-Lake St. Claire National Park in the center of the state. Tasmania's famous 50-mile Overland Trail begins at Cradle Mountain in the north and ends at Lake St. Claire, Australia's deepest freshwater lake in the south. Visitor centers bookend the park, but there is no through road. The Cradle Mountain side is more popular and much more developed with hotels, spas and restaurants.

Recommended hiking: If you're not up to the tough Overland Trail, the Dove Lake Circuit is a beautiful hike that begins with a boat ride to Narcissus Hut and a walk back to the visitor center along the lake. At Mole Creek Karst, two limestone caves are filled with amazing white stalagmites and stalactites.

Lodging/dining: Lemonthyme Lodge, a few miles from Cradle Mountain entrance, is a destination in itself. Large log cabin with comfortable but Spartan guest rooms, video lounge, sitting area with fireplace, dining room and huge veranda. There are also private cottages. Nearby trails lead to lovely waterfalls. The restaurant is excellent, and breakfast is included. Every evening, a naturalist feeds the wildlife and discusses their habits.

BRUNY ISLAND: HOME OF THE MINI PENGUINS

Tasmania has its own offshore islands, including North and South Bruny, connected by a narrow isthmus, "the Neck," and a single two-lane road. Although we just missed the season, there is a fairy penguin rookery viewing platform along this road where, after sunset, you can watch the smallest penguins in the world return to their sand-dune burrow nests from the ocean.

Recommended: Our three-hour Bruny Island Charter Cruise of Southern Bruny National Park coastline took us to where the Tasman Sea meets the Southern Ocean. Sculptured cliff faces, arches and sea stacks harbor spectacular wildlife: dolphins, seals, albatross and shearwaters. Wet-weather gear is provided, as are cookies and tea (yes, we needed it all that day!).

Tasmania's violent history is never far off, and Cape Bruny Lighthouse, first lit in 1838, was built with local stone by convicts. Bruny's rugged coastline, with hiking on the Labillardiere Peninsula, was our land entree to its remote beaches and beautiful bays.

Many of the great 18th-century seafarers: Capt. William Bligh, Capt. James Cook, Matthew Flinders and the French Admiral Bruni D'Entrecasteaux (whose visit in 1792-93 gave his name to the Island and the channel), dropped anchor at Bruny Island. You can read their logs at the Bligh Museum of Pacific Exploration in Adventure Bay.

Lodging: At Adventure Bay Holiday Village Caravan Park offers everything from tent sites to en-suite cottages. We opted for charming, rustic, wood cabins or "dollhouses" with shared kitchen and bathhouse in separate building. White and brown wallabies were among wildlife visitors. White wallabies are found only on Bruny Island. www.adventurebayholidayvillage.com.au.

Dining: At the Penguin Café, Bruny's famous "Get Shucked" oysters are small, sweet and delicious. Tasmanian and mainland Australian wines accompanied food so delicious we ate there two of our three nights, and would have eaten there a third if they had been open. www.penguincafe.com.au, www.getshucked.com.au.

Getting there: Reach Bruny Island via a 20-minute scenic ferry ride from Kettering. Cost: $28 per person.

MORE GREAT WALKS: MOSS, FERNS AND FALLS

Tasmania Parks & Wildlife Service and Forestry Tasmania maintain a wonderful system of walks that range from 10 minutes to eight hours. Many include boardwalks and are wheelchair accessible. Top of our list: