Where: Kohala Book Shop, 54-3885 Akoni Pule Highway (P.O. Box 789), Kapa'au, HI 96755; (808) 889-6400; www.kohalabooks.big808.com

Why go there: Jan and Frank Morgan's shop is the largest used-book store in Hawai'i, combining new, used, collectable and rare books. Founded in 1998, the store's core inventory was that of the famed Tusitala Bookstore in Kailua, which had gone out of business with the death of its owner. For more than 25 years Tusitala (Samoan for Robert Louis Stevenson's nickname, "Teller of Tales") was the pre-eminent used-book store in Hawai'i. During a recent visit there, I paged through a manuscript documenting kapa patterns and watermarks from the Bishop Museum — a collection so rare and interesting that my hands were shaking as I looked through it (it's selling for $2,500). But I also found some community cookbooks that were just a few dollars each.

Where to eat: Just down the road, in Hawi, is Bamboo Restaurant & Gallery (889-5555) in a historic one-time businessman's hotel built in the early years of the 20th century. The high-ceilinged, wood-floored room is breezy and comfortable and the service is relaxed and friendly. Be sure to order the sate chicken potstickers — pasta stuffed with ground chicken, garlic, ginger, peanut butter, chili and herbs (sounds weird but tastes awesome). It's an interesting idea I've not encountered anywhere else. The Bamboozler appetizer sampler makes a great lunch or plate to share with chicken sate, shrimp and other yummy things. They have live music many evenings; slack-key master John Keawe often plays there.

Where to shop (besides the bookstore): Hawi and Kapa'au are blessed with lots of great shops. I never miss a chance to visit As Hawi Turns, which sells exceptionally well selected gifts and clothing. Also worth a stop are Elements Jewelry and Fine Crafts in Kapa'au (artwork, crafts, etc.; I got some great aprons made of old rice sacks) and Mother's Antiques, Imports and Fine Cigars in Hawi (bought a "Sopranos" cigar for my husband).

Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.