ben, mercier, pops, up, wave, like, dolphin, while, bodysurfing, point, panic, june, uses, his, arms, to, stabilize, himself, crest, inside, curl, he, says, makes, heart, pump, miles, hour, as, crests, continues, use, form, keep, stable, after, catching, satisfying, gives, shaka, back, shore, bodyboarding, session