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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, June 29, 2007

Hawaii chef Mavro serves up his version of ratatouille

By Mike Gordon
Advertiser Staff Writer

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Chef Mavro's Ono Brochette Ratatouille, Cassis-style.

Photos by GREGORY YAMAMOTO | The Honolulu Advertiser

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Chef Mavro combines the vegetables for his version of ratatouille.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser
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It's very un-French, but Chef Mavro doesn't care. When he goes to a movie, he orders a tub of unbuttered popcorn.

So naturally, during an advance Honolulu screening last week of Disney's new film "Ratatouille," Mavro munched on theater comfort food while taking in the animated antics of an aspiring chef who happens to be a rat.

Mavro, whose formal name is George Mavrothalassitis, wasn't sure what to expect.

"It was a complete surprise for me," he said of the film, opening in theaters today. "I was not ready to enjoy it. I thought what is this story? I was almost suspicious. But it was great."

The story of Remy the rat and his adventures in a five-star restaurant in Paris captured the heart of Hawai'i's most visible French chef. Mavrothalassitis owns Chef Mavro and Cassis by Chef Mavro, and so, appropriately enough, he was invited by the movie studio to be "the French face" of the film.

In Disney's animated restaurant, Mavrothalassitis saw accurate portrayals of every chef he ever met, from good to bumbling to "kitchen Nazi."

"It's so real," he said. "You can feel the atmosphere in the kitchen. They are using the right tools. They even have burns on their hands."

That doesn't mean you'll find a rat in either of his kitchens, although you will find ratatouille at Cassis, where it's the plat du jour every Tuesday this summer. The dish comes with a bit of Chef Mavro twist: grilled ono on a skewer of rosemary.

Ratatouille is comfort food from his past. Mavrothalassitis was born and raised in sun-splashed Marseilles, but the dish is extremely popular all over France. It's the kind of family meal that inspires nostalgia about your mother's home cooking, he said.

"It's a summertime recipe," he said. "It's all the flavors of summer, and it's the flavors of vacation. When I used to go to my grandmother's farm, I would have this."

Ratatouille can be served hot or cold and includes chopped, sauteed tomatoes, zucchini, bell peppers and onions. Another Chef Mavro twist: He includes black olives, capers and anchovies to give the dish a Mediterranean flavor; he also drizzles it with essence of basil for a bit of zip.

The best way to prepare a ratatouille is something the chef would never explain to his busy mother, whose habit of cooking all the ingredients at once made it more of a stew.

"The best way is to do things separately," he said. "You cook them and put them on the side and at the end, you put them all together. I like to do this because it preserves the flavors."

But his mother's version of comfort food always included a key ingredient.

"I always say the best ingredient is love," he said. "You cannot beat it, and she always cooked with love."

RATATOUILLE, CASSIS-STYLE

Cassis' summer menu for lunch and dinner features a Tuesday "plat du jour" of ratatouille with grilled ono on a rosemary brochette, with essence of basil. George Mavrothalassitis, chef/owner of Cassis by Chef Mavro, and Ben Takahashi, Cassis executive chef, shared the recipe:

  • 2 medium green
  • zucchinis
  • 2 medium eggplants
  • 2 red bell peppers
  • 2 green bell peppers
  • 1 medium Maui onion
  • 2 large tomatoes
  • 5 ounces extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 12 calamata olives, pitted, chopped
  • 1 tablespoon capers
  • 1 tablespoon anchovies, minced
  • 2 tablespoons fresh basil, diced
  • Salt and pepper, to taste

    Remove skin from green zucchini and eggplant; dice into medium-size pieces.

    Cut red and green bell peppers, remove seeds; dice into medium-size pieces.

    Remove skin from onion; dice into medium-size pieces.

    Peel tomatoes, de-seed and dice into medium-size pieces.

    Saute separately in olive oil until thoroughly cooked: zucchini, eggplant, red bell pepper, green bell pepper, and Maui onion. Set aside each in individual bowls.

    Saute garlic in olive oil until translucent; add tomatoes and cook over medium heat until soft. Add all vegetables, olives, capers and anchovies. Mix thoroughly; add basil. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or chilled. Makes 4 servings.

    Reach Mike Gordon at mgordon@honoluluadvertiser.com.