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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, March 25, 2007

A once-secret island of glassblowers

By Chris Oliver
Advertiser Staff Writer

Murano, Italy, near Venice, has been a world center of art glass innovation for eight centuries.

SACHI NAKAMURA | The Honolulu Advertiser

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Where: Murano, Italy

Why go there: Across the lagoon from Venice, this small cluster of connected islets has been the center of the glassblowing industry since 1291, when Venetian authorities moved the furnaces and craftsmen there to avoid fires and smoke hazards in Venice. The real reason, however, is thought to be to keep the secrets of glass-making hidden from the prying eyes of foreign competition. What better sanctuary than a quiet island? Thus Murano became the world's first industrial zone.

What is there to do: Visitors watch master glassblowers at work through windows into foundries changed little over the centuries. In a ritual thousands of years old, a blob of molten glass is scooped from the furnace onto an iron rod and by twisting, turning and blowing is transformed into an object of beauty.

Don't miss: Museo Vetrario (glass museum) in the huge Palazzo Giustinian which houses antique and modern glass, including the beautiful 15th-century Barovier wedding cup. Also the Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato on the San Donato canal, where fragments of ancient glass from island foundries are incorporated into the church floor.

Eating: Look for the gondolas that sell fruit, vegetables and delicious breads and cheese, then picnic by the canal.

Lodging: Murano is an easy 30- to 40-minute trip by water from Venice or Lido. Hotel Giardinetto on Lido island is an economy hotel in a lively square next to the vaporetta and water taxi station. www.holidaycityeurope.com/giardinetto-venice.

Tips: Murano has almost no shade, and summer temperatures soar into the high 90s. Take water and wear comfortable shoes. Because there are no vehicles, you'll be on foot.

Reach Chris Oliver at coliver@honoluluadvertiser.com.