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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, May 9, 2007

RAISE A GLASS
Pink wine pretty on Mom's Day

 •  Learning to trust your taste buds

By Kim Karalovich

Mother's Day desserts, such as these by Sugar Rush by Frances, can be served with pink wines.

Liane Fu

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Maybe it's because moms tend to like pretty things that they like pink wines.

When we call to mind pink wine, many people think sweet, such as white zinfandel. Zinfandel is really a red wine grape, and it was actually an accident in the Sutter Home production of red zinfandel that produced the first white zinfandel. This new pink wine was pretty, sweet and uncomplicated. You could drink it cold or at room temperature and, best of all, Mom loved it. It was a huge hit.

Production of white zinfandel soared and suddenly zinfandel grapes were in demand. This spike in the popularity of zinfandel grapes saved zinfandel vineyards all over California. Before the white zinfandel boom, the demand for the zinfandel grape had slumped, and many old-vine zinfandel vineyards had been slated to be ripped out to make room for more profitable produce, such as pears and plums. Fortunately, the vines were saved. So old-vine zinfandel lovers owe a debt of gratitude to white zinfandel drinkers.

White zinfandel became so popular that even today the association of pink wines with sweet wines is very common. However, this association is not necessarily true. Pink wines are also known as roses. The classic European versions of rose wines are actually dry. They typically have some fruit or floral notes up front on the nose, but in general they do not have much residual sweetness on the finish.

The classic rose is a great food wine with nice acid structure and a bit more substantial body than your average white wine. They are typically meant to be drunk young and fresh. They go great with Mother's Day brunch items such as ham, turkey, salads, seafood, chicken, pork or salmon.

If you are torn between a bottle of white or a bottle of red, choose a bottle of rose, which incorporates pleasing elements from them both. Best of all, you can drink it cold, which can be very refreshing on a hot day.

Here are some classic roses that would pair wonderfully with the type of foods found in a Mother's Day brunch.

  • Vina Alarba Rose 2005: This dry rose is fragrant and light-bodied with a surprising flavor intensity and zesty freshness. It has lovely raspberry notes with good underlying acidity, an incredible bargain; $8.29.

  • Crios Rose of Malbec 2005: This wine has notes of wild strawberries with hints of cherry and strawberry on the palate. It's great as a refreshing aperitif or to pair with richer salads and other similar summer foods; $10.99.

  • Toad Hollow Rose of Pinot Noir 2006: Aromas of rose petals and wild strawberries on the nose. The wine is smooth and goes great with a wide variety of foods. It has enough fruit to pair well with spicy hot cuisines; $9.99.

  • Innocent Bystander Rose 2005: This is a bone-dry rose with hints of white flowers on the nose and good acid structure. A great food wine; $16.99.

    Then again, sometimes Mom just wants her white zinfandel, and that's OK, too. However, if you'd like to treat her to something new that she might hesitate to try on her own (but would love if she did get a chance to try it), then find something similar to a white zinfandel. Here are sweet, refreshing and low-in-alcohol options:

  • Coppo Brachetto D'Aqui Passione 2006: This wine has a lively, zingy tease of bubbles, with fresh aromas of raspberries and strawberries. Brachetto d'Acqui can commence a great evening as an aperitif, and even better, it is an incredibly sensual pairing with chocolate at the end of the meal; $27.

  • Piazzo Moscato d'Asti: It is delicately sweet, fresh and clean. This dessert wine is light and bursting with flavors of pineapple and peach. Great with fresh melon and light desserts, or better yet, by itself. And it's only 5 percent alcohol; $16.50.

    These dessert wines pair beautifully with elegant pastries. Treat your mom to some hedonistic miniature desserts from Sugar Rush by Frances. These stunningly beautiful desserts are artfully crafted with flavors that are meltingly decadent without being too sweet. The Wine Stop will special order them for you for Mother's Day — place your order by tomorrow. Cheers!

    Kim Karolavich and Liane Fu own The Wine Stop. Reach them at www.thewinestophawaii.com or 946-3707.