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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, May 20, 2007

Drink in culture at Boulder teahouse

By Chris Oliver
Advertiser Staff Writer

The Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse not only offers tea but a multicultural array of dining options for breakfast, brunch or dinner.

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Where: The Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse in Boulder, Colo., in the foothills of the Rockies, might be the last place to expect a beautiful Tajikistan teahouse, but there it is in the center of town near the restored steam engine that brought gold prospectors to the Front Range in the 19th century. (Where's Tajikistan? Between China and Afghanistan at the Western end of the Himalayas; it's about the size of Iowa with a population of 2 million.)

Why Boulder: In short, on his first visit to Boulder in 1987, the mayor of Boulder's sister city Dushanbe in Tajikistan, thought of creating a bond between the cities with the gift of a teahouse. In Dushanbe, more than 40 Tajik craftspeople carved and hand-painted the structure's exterior panels, ceiling, inside columns and furniture in the traditional Persian style dating back 2,000 years. In downtown Boulder, Tajik master woodcarvers helped reassemble the building, carving their names and messages on the teahouse ceiling when completed; one reads "Artisans of ancient Khojand whose works are magical." Inside, tables surround a fountain sculpture; outside, tables look on to Boulder Creek bike path and Central Park.

On the menu: Dushanbe offers many kinds of tea, but there also are fabulous breakfast, brunch and dining options. Dinner could mean Burmese coconut curry, or Tabrizi kooftah balls (Persian meatballs with dried fruits, nuts, and herbs in a tomato sauce), Indian samosas or Spanish seafood paella. There's Mediterranean pizza, Korean squid and Thai coconut curry; there's even Hawaiian poke (tuna marinated in soy, sesame, seaweed and green onion with pea shoot ginger salad). Prices are $8 to $18. But back to the tea. More than 80 varieties are on offer: Puerh teas, Rooibos Tisanes, Oolongs, black and green teas, and exotic fragrant leaves with names like Blue Moon, Dragon Eyes, Jasmine Phoenix Pearls, Mate Siciliana. Drink them with artichoke puff pastries, English scones and clotted cream or a tasty Moroccan cous cous salad. Their house tea gingerbread is a favorite.

Hours: 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays. Tea time is 3-5 p.m. Brunch is served weekends only.

If you go: The Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse is at 1770 13th St., Boulder, CO 80302; (303) 442-4997, www.boulderteahouse.com.

Reach Chris Oliver at coliver@honoluluadvertiser.com.