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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, May 30, 2007

TASTE
Bayless' take on familiar Mexican fare

 •  One hot tamale

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Rick Bayless' chunky guacamole roughly mashes avocados with onions and chiles.

LARRY CROWE | Associated Press

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Rick Bayless stands in the kitchen of his Frontera Grill, which was named the nation's top restaurant by the James Beard Foundation for Bayless' authentic approach to Mexican food.

CHARLES REX ARBOGAST | Associated Press

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Rick Bayless, among the most respected English-language authorities on Mexican food, recently re-released an updated version of his classic, 20-year-old book "Authentic Mexican," (William Morrow, hardback, $30), including photos and a new preface. Here's a sample recipe.

When Bayless makes quesadillas, they aren't the flat, filled flour tortilla kind we're used to. They are savory snacks made from fresh corn flour dough, filled and fried to order. Here's how to make a simple version with potatoes and chilies.

QUESADILLAS CON PAPAS Y CON RAJAS

(Corn turnovers with potatoes and green chilies)

For the turnovers:

  • 1 3/4 cups masa harina (corn flour)

  • 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons hot water

  • 2 tablespoons lard or vegetable shortening

  • 1/3 cup flour

  • A generous 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1 scant teaspoon baking powder

    For the filling:

  • 2 small boiling potatoes (i.e. red-skinned ones), halved

  • 1 1/2 tablespoons lard or vegetable oil

  • 1/2 small onion, thinly sliced

  • 3 medium chilies poblanos, roasted and peeled

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 3/4 cup (about 3 ounces) crumbled fresh cheese (queso fresco or domestic goat cheese or farmer's cheese)

    For frying:

  • Vegetable oil to the depth of 1 inch

    Prepare masa: Mix the masa harina with the hot water, cover and let stand 20-30 minutes. Mix with lard or shortening, flour, salt and baking powder. The dough should feel like soft cookie dough, but not sticky, soft but with enough body to be molded. If necessary, more warm water can be added. Divide into 12 balls, cover with plastic wrap.

    Make the filling: Simmer potatoes in salted water to cover until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain, cool under running water, peel and cut into 1/4-inch dice. Heat the lard or oil in a heavy medium-size skillet over medium heat. Add onion and potato and fry, stirring regularly, until browned, 10-15 minutes. Seed the chilies and slice them into 1/8-inch strips. Stir into potato mixture, season with salt, remove from stove and stir into cheese. Place in small bowl and cool before filling turnovers.

    Using a tortilla press or rolling pin, flatten a ball of masa dough between to sheets of plastic wrap to make a medium-large (5-inch), thickish tortilla. Lay one portion of filling across one-half the uncovered tortilla, leaving 1/2-inch border around edge. Fold the uncovered side of the tortilla and press edges to seal. Remove plastic wrap and lay on a tray. Cover lightly with plastic wrap and continue making quesadillas.

    When you have completed forming and filling all 12 quesadillas, heat the oil to 375 degrees, then fry turnovers, two or three at a time, until browned, about two minutes a side. Place on paper towels to drain oil and keep warm in a low oven until all are ready. Serve immediately.

  • Per serving: 270 calories, 18 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 350 mg sodium, 23 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, no sugar, 5 g protein

    CHUNKY GUACAMOLE

    (Avocado relish)

  • 1/2 small onion, very finely chopped

  • Fresh hot chiles to taste (roughly 2 chiles serranos or 1 chile jalapeno), stemmed seeded and very finely chopped.

  • 1 ripe, medium-large tomato, cored and very finely chopped (optional)

  • 1 clove garlic, very finely chopped (optional)

  • 10 springs fresh cilantro, chopped (optional)

  • 3 ripe, medium avocados

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 1/2 lime, juiced (optional)

    Additional chopped onion and cilantro, radish slices or roses, and/or a little crumbled Mexican queso fresco or other fresh cheese like feta for garnish

    In a medium bowl, mix the chopped onion and chiles with the optional tomato, garlic and cilantro.

    Close to the time you are going to serve, halve the avocados lengthwise by cutting from the stem to flower ends, around the pits. Twist the avocado halves in opposite directions to loosen the meat from the pits, then scoop out the pits and reserve. Scrape the avocado pulp from the skins and add it to the bowl.

    Using your hand or a spoon, roughly mash the avocado while mixing in the other ingredients, making a coarse, thick mass. Flavor with salt, then enough lime juice to add a little zing if you wish. Return the pits to the guacamole and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap pressed directly onto the surface of the mixture. Set aside for a few minutes to let the flavors blend.

  • Per 2 tablespoon serving: 40 calories, 3.5 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, 50 mg sodium, 2 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, no sugar, 1 g protein

    Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.