In Hawai'i, "uncle" has such a warm and fuzzy connotation. He's the guy who shows up with his truck when you have to move, who keeps the lu'au rocks in his backyard and helps dig the imu, who teaches you to fish and throw net.

This was on my mind as I wandered into Uncle's Fish Market & Grill on Pier 38 the other day, a spot that's had plenty of buzz since it opened last summer. The very name predisposes a person to like the place.

And likable it is — a large, bright, airy room with flat-screen TVs showing videos of the one that didn't get away, 20 or so polished wood tables in sizes that range from two-tops to family groups, Hawaiian music, blow-ups of fishing snapshots and a view of the kitchen.

"Sorry, no frozen fish sold here," declares a sign in mock apology. (The whole place shows a sense of humor: Uncle portrayed with a coconut frond hat, a throw net over one shoulder and a fishhook necklace; the staff wearing palaka shorts.)

Uncle's is well-organized. The menu is both posted above the order line and printed on fliers. The order taker is efficient, and you needn't stand around waiting for your meal. They'll hand you one of those light-up gadgets and you can settle in at a table until your order comes up.

'Ahi, mahimahi and opah were the fish of the day when I first dropped in. The specials change often, as do market prices on fish and chips, plates, sandwiches and deli items. (A chill case displays "grab and go" poke, sashimi, shrimp with cocktail sauce, oysters on the half shell, and there are sushi rolls on the checkout stand — mahalo for not refrigerating the rice, Uncle!)

A feature of the day was broiled garlic 'ahi belly with a side of 'ahi sashimi for $12.95, served with white or brown rice and a small container of coleslaw. Even after the plate had been carried back to the office as a lunch gift for a colleague, the 'ahi belly was exceptionally moist. The butter sauce, a generous serving of which came in a container on the side, was a classic, but unnecessary, gilding of the lily. The sashimi — three slices in a small cup with a knob of wasabi and some grated cabbage — was just average. But I'd drive Nimitz at rush hour to have the 'ahi belly again; it's a regular menu feature at $10.95.

I ordered fish and chips because I wanted to see how they'd do; would these be better than the usual frozen "fingers"? The choice was 'ahi or mahi and I selected the latter ($12.95); I just couldn't see wasting good 'ahi on deep frying. These are market-priced and fried, the menu declared, in zero trans-fat oil. Coated in crisp panko, the thick fingers of fish were flaky but the mild flavor couldn't stand up to that first, alluring hit of hot fat and crunch of breading. Shoulda had the 'ahi.

Actually, shoulda had the opah plate (market priced); a friendly diner at another table offered me a taste and the rich flavor had me eyeing the menu again.

Or maybe a sandwich (market price) with fish of the day broiled, sauteed or blackened Cajun-style on a French roll with Uncle's special sauce (chili shoyu), teriyaki or tartar; fries and coleslaw, too. I'm also curious about the tuna salad sandwich made from fresh steamed fish ($8.50). And a friend was raving about their okazu-style tuna cakes (an occasional special). There's lots left to try.

I saved room for dessert: a square of sweet-potato pie ($2.50). This was the now-classic combination of Okinawan sweet potato paste topped by a layer of haupia pudding, all on a nut-crumb crust. Yummy. This is the only dessert offered right now, but they're working on something guava-passion fruit.

Uncle's makes a darn good fish taco: bits of 'ahi tossed with pineapple-papaya salsa and mucho fresh cilantro ($9.50 for two soft burrito style or three crunchy taco style) served with avocado-tomato-cabbage salad in vinaigrette. (Like many Island restaurants, Uncle's fills in with shredded cabbage wherever there would otherwise be a void.)

The pasta with clams was advertised as "sauteed with garlic, fresh basil, wine and Parmesan cheese" ($13.95) — so that's what I expected. Instead, the linguini and clams were topped with a cooked red sauce. Disappointing, since I dislike red sauce unless it's made a) by an Italian or b) by me. I never knowingly order it. After tasting the clams — tender and briny — and the cheesy garlic bread (two slices), I handed this one to my husband, who liked it.

Having roamed the Uncle's menu a bit, my enthusiastic vote goes to the fish-of-the-day plates and sandwiches; these, with the accompanying sauces and marinades, are what set Uncle's apart from the broader world of plate lunch. (That, and the comfortable, air-conditioned surroundings, food made to order and high-quality plastic tableware instead of that nasty Styrofoam.)

Be aware: Tables fill up at noontime, and there's no water view.

A table tent card says the restaurant is a tribute to all those uncles who have been there for us over the years. Fitting.

RESTAURANT NEWS

Closed: University of Hawai'i-Manoa students may have noticed something missing in their daily routines — Volcano Joe's (1810 University Ave.). The restaurant/hangout closed last week because of the rising cost of everything from rent to dairy products, according to owner Les Iczkovitz.

Changes: David Paul's Lahaina Grill (127 Lahainaluna Road in Lahaina, Maui, 808-667-5117) will officially become simply "Lahaina Grill" on Dec. 1. The bistro restaurant will continue to have the same owner, Jurg Munch, and the same menu and staff, but because of a licensing agreement with the original owner, David Paul Johnson, the name will come to an end in December.

Milestone: In preparation of Hali'imaile General Store's (900 Hali'imaile Road, Hali'imaile, Maui) 20th anniversary next year, owner Bev Gannon will unveil a lineup of promotions and parties. Old favorites such as crab boboli are still on the menu, but new items have been added, such as a beet and goat cheese salad with honey bacon vinaigrette.

How haute: Hank's Haute Dogs this week inaugurates new haute-haute menu items: truffle macaroni and cheese, a seasonal reindeer meat hot dog, Chicago Italian beef and their signature lobster sausage. Starting Nov. 30, hours change to: 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Fridays, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturdays and 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Sundays; closed Mondays; 324 Coral St., Kaka'ako.

Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.