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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, October 5, 2007

Three restaurants worthy of your hard-earned dollars

Advertiser Staff

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

'Elua Restaurant offers smoked duck carpaccio, a contrast of tastes and textures. Every dish is available paired with an appropriate wine in either a 2- or 5-ounce portion.

Advertiser library photos

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Stage restaurant in the new Honolulu Design Center features (clockwise from bottom) duet of lamb, panache of coffee bean dessert and crab and citrus appetizer.

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Restaurant Epic on Nu'uanu features from left, unagi 'ahi sushi roll, saikyo miso butterfish and prosciutto-wrapped sea scallops.

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It's been a banner year for new restaurants. From the archives, here are three that made a big impression on Advertiser food editor Wanda Adams.

STAGE

1250 Kapi'olani Blvd., Honolulu Design Center

956-1250, www.honoluludesigncenter.com

11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-9:30 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays; 10 a.m.-1:30 p.m., 5-9:30 p.m. Sundays

Details: Dress is business casual; men should wear collared shirts; free parking is off Pensacola or Pi'ikoi

Price: Dinner entrees $26-$42

Recommended: Crab and citrus appetizer, duet of lamb, panache of coffee bean

After just three weeks in business, Stage delivered a meal that didn't have one false note. The pacing was just right — not too fast, not slow. The noise level was tolerable even though the room was full. The servers were relaxed and personable, even though it's a pretty high-end place.

And for the exquisite quality and sophistication of the food — from the cardamom-spiced lamb chop and a Tuscan-style braised lamb to the beautifully prepared grilled Hawaiian escolar — I found Stage not extravagantly priced.

The wine list is heavy on pinot noir, a choice that allows you to order very different dishes and still enjoy a good match.

After our entrees, we received an unexpected bonus, an intermezzo of green apple and wasabi sorbet to perk up our palates. My notes read, "Big Wow."

'ELUA RESTAURANT AND WINE BAR

1341 Kapi'olani Blvd.

955-3582, www.eluarestaurant.com

11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 6-11 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; 6-11 p.m. Saturdays-Sundays

Details: Extensive wine menu, matched wines for every course, wine and small plates at the bar, limited free parking in the building

Prices: Appetizers from $10, entrees to $37

Recommended: duck carpaccio, pan-fried veal chops

When well-known Island chefs Philippe Padovani and Donato Loperfido announced their partnership in a new, fine-dining Mediterranean restaurant called 'Elua ("Two"), I was interested but not sure what to think. How would these very opinionated chefs, both distinct personalities and both having run their own kitchens for years, create an integrated organization and menu?

I needn't have worried. They've found common ground and conquered it. The commonality between the two chefs is, of course, the greater Mediterranean region. Philippe was born in Marseille and Donato in Puglia; the ingredients, and the bright, true flavors of these areas are second nature to both.

In the former L'Uraku space, the dining room has been transformed. In place of the umbrellas on the ceiling and white walls is now dark wood, with Hawaiian-themed artwork by Avi Kariati.

Another nice touch: Every dish is available paired with an appropriate wine in either a 2- or a 5-ounce portion; European, American and even some Down Under wines, in prices that range from $2 to $21 per serving. The choice allows you to indulge without overindulging. They've got a 24-wine Cruvinet pumping system and offer about 28 wines by the glass.

From duck carpaccio, a contrast of tastes (salty, bitter, sweet) and textures (crisp, unctuous), to a moist, tender pan-fried veal chop redolent of Madeira and truffles, the food was uniformly good to great, and the value for volume is exceptional for a high-end restaurant.

RESTAURANT EPIC

1131 Nu'uanu Ave.; 587-7877

11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays; 11 a.m.-2:20 p.m., 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5-10 p.m. Sundays.

Details: Valet parking, $5 (or there's a nearby inexpensive municipal lot off Beretania Street between Nu'uanu and Smith)

Price: $9-$20 lunch, $9-$39 dinner

Recommended: Kobe burger, unagi and 'ahi roll, blue cheese-crusted papio, traditional Irish Bailey's cheesecake

Restaurant Epic is a refreshingly tranquil place amid Honolulu's rash of new busy-busy, loud-loud restaurants. It's done up in shades of orange, rust, rich brown and peach, with muted lighting and music. Out the half-frosted windows you see vintage building roofs and the heads of passers-by, giving the place an urban feel.

If you are a fan of raw or rare tuna, don't miss the trio 'ahi — 'ahi poke, unagi and 'ahi roll and sizzling 'ahi sashimi with shiso leaf. My favorite was the inside-out sushi roll with rice and 'ahi on the outside and crisp fried unagi (eel) in the center, dressed with a delicious drizzle of soy-based sauce and a lacing of crisp radish sprouts.

Saikyo miso-style butterfish is garnished with locally raised crunchy sea asparagus (aka sea beans) and tomatoes, a wedge of baby bok choy braised in soy, garlic, ginger and fish sauce and slowly braised it.

Deep-sea papio wasn't overpowered by its crust of blue cheese.

The restaurant now has its liquor license and is slowly building up its wine list. In the meantime, they make a mean mojito.

RESTAURANT NEWS

Restaurant guide out: Inside today's newspaper is our latest edition of Hawai'i's Best Restaurants. The full-color magazine features the winners of the 2007 'Ilima Award balloting and our critics' choices for best restaurants. It's been revised and substantially rewritten, with more than 300 restaurants, takeout spots and bars. The guide is available online at www.honoluluadvertiser.com, and while supplies last, in a rack in The Advertiser building's lobby.

Lunch special: Think Cassis by Chef Mavro is pricey for lunch? Try the bargain Wikiwiki menu — soup or salad and an entrée for $17.50, served 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Choose from dishes such as hulihuli-style chicken with to-die-for garlic Kahuku creamed corn and Hamakua mushroom risotto.

Events: Brasserie Du Vin's Monday wine-pairing dinner on Oct. 8 is "First Class Passengers Only" and includes this match made in heaven: 2005 Inniskillin Vidal Icewine with seared foie gras, powdered sugar beignets and berries. Cost: $69. Reservations: 255-8796.

Little Kitchens is back 5:30-8 p.m. Oct. 12 at the Hawaii State Art Museum, with big flavors from local independent restaurants. Serving food this year will be BluWater Grill, Downtown, Town and 12th Avenue Grill, among others. Price: $55. Available at Liquor Collection, Fujioka's, Oliver and the Honolulu Weekly. Call 528-1474, ext. 10.