TAKE A HIKE WITH MIKE

From summit ridges to lush, green valleys, fast-running streams to bone-dry brush, Hawai'i's public access trails offer an unrivaled variety of unique hiking experiences — sometimes on a single trail. Advertiser reporter Michael Tsai has taken a look at some of O'ahu's best novice, intermediate and advanced trails.

It's simple human nature, we're assured, to best remember the beginning and end of things.

Such is certainly true for those who have partaken of the hard-earned pleasures of the Lanipo trail, a grinding out-and-back ridge hike with more highs and lows than than the Beckhams and Brangelina combined.

Yet, to focus solely on the breath-seizing rock climbs at the start and end of the trail — or even the stout climb to the Ko'olau summit ridge at midpoint — is to overlook a host of subtler enjoyments along the way.

Lanipo is a ridge-lover's dream, with all of the positive and negative connotations that follow.

Under cool, overcast conditions, particularly after a few good weeks of rain, the trail rewards those who can meet the hardy challenge of its numerous rises and falls with great views of Waimanalo, Palolo Valley (including Ka'au Crater), the Ko'olaus and much of East Honolulu.

In the thick of summer, however, the direct sunlight and surrounding humidity can leave hikers feeling as parched and shriveled as the dead, grey scrub that lines the exposed ridge.

The trailhead is just off Maunalani Circle and is accessible via a narrow alley between two chain-link fences.

The trail begins right on Mau'umae Ridge with a series of moderate descents along the ridge line. After a short but steep climb, the trail descends sharply along a narrow stretch of exposed rock.

The first lookout appears on the right, offering a clear view of Waimanalo. A quarter-mile down and up the ridge is another lookout, this one equipped with a bench (dedicated to late Hawaiian Trail and Mountain Club hike leader Steve Becker) that overlooks Palolo Valley.

Advancing along the ridge, up and down a series of large and small knobs, hikers can also spot Ka'au Crater and a small waterfall.

The trail alternates from broad and secure to very narrow and unstable as it climbs and falls. Small groves of ironwood and eucalyptus provide shady respite along the way, but most of the trail is wide open and exposed.

Another large lookout area, which some have apparently used for camping, is to the right of a juncture along a long, uphill stretch of trail. Abundant strawberry-guava plants, which overflow with fruit in the late summer, offer hikers a quick energy boost as they regain their breath.

While the sight of the misty Ko'olaus rising in the distance is a strong lure for hikers determined to make it to the summit, it's worth taking the approach slowly to preserve energy and to fully appreciate the clusters of 'ohi'a lehua, fiddlewoods, koa and other flora along the way.

The second half of the approach to the Ko'olau intersection is typically overgrown with tall grass and thick, scratchy uluhe fern. Hikers with sensitive skin will want to be sure to wear, or at least pack, lightweight long pants for this stretch.

The trail along this latter section is deeply rutted in places, and the ferns and moss at the edges obscure several treacherous sections of eroded trail making each wide, errant step the potential start of a long, lacerating slide down the gully.

After a couple of steep, slippery knobs, the long, uphill stretch to the Ko'olau summit ridge suddenly becomes visible. This is a good point at which to take inventory of one's physical condition. Quaking quads, prolonged shortness of breath or general fatigue are all strong signs that a hiker should turn around. Remember, every downhill on the approach represents a climb on the return.

The final run to the summit crosses long expanses of windy, exposed ridge. The trail narrows as it rises steeply along jagged, slippery terrain leading to the turnaround point at Kainawa'anui peak.

Unlike other out-and-back trails, Lanipo is often more taxing on its return than it is on its approach, particularly in the last mile where a series of false peaks obscures the final, rocky climb.

Technically, the trail climbs just 1,700 feet from trailhead to turnaround, but hikers should expect to climb (and descend) at least twice that as the ridge rises and falls more than a dozen times on each leg.

Still, for well-conditioned hikers, Lanipo's highs and lows can be a thrilling scenic ride.

Reach Michael Tsai at mtsai@honoluluadvertiser.com.