Based on nothing but my gut feeling, I'm going to go out on a limb and say that probably 90 percent of all beaujolais purchases and consumption in the United States happens within one three-hour period at only one time during the year, Thanksgiving.

The wine, which takes its name from the historical Beaujolais province and wine-producing region, is made from the gamay grape. Wine made from gamay is typically fresh, fruity, uncomplicated, fairly light-bodied and is made to enjoy a year or two after the vintage.

As far as pragmatics are concerned, cheap, fruity beaujolais may be the ideal first wine to drink; a bridge, so to speak, to more serious red wines.

Because of its refreshing acidity, the lighter stuff can be drunk with a variety of foods, while the more serious stuff can actually be the centerpiece of a meal. I know that most consumers consider beaujolais a cheap, light and unserious wine, which unfortunately results in a wine that falls into the category of "just bring this one because no one at the party is a wine drinker anyway" kind of wine.

Many of you serious drinkers know exactly what I'm talking about.

Recently, our shop has fielded several requests from customers looking for beaujolais, so I was very excited to find that we'd taste several beaujolais at a supplier's tasting the next weekend. It wasn't until this tasting that I understood the quality and results beaujolais can achieve.

Here's why: Most of the beaujolais that the average Joe will encounter in a lifetime comes from two of the largest and most reliable negociants, Georges Duboeuf and Louis Jadot. Rather than grow the grapes themselves, negociant firms like these buy the grapes and wine from growers and blend, bottle and actually sell the wine under their own labels. Since the wine from these producers can originate from any part of the Beaujolais region, the resulting wines are usually pretty good but not great. They are good mostly because of the reputation of these quality negociants.

The very best beaujolais though, like the ones I tasted, come from one of the 10 specific areas in the north and are known as cru beaujolais. These wines are made by small, family-owned chateaus, where the owner is also the farmer, winemaker and salesperson.

Hand-crafted wines like these are the ones worth seeking out. They have enough easygoing character to be enjoyed as a slightly chilled, knock-back wine, but they also have enough nuance, perfume and structure to warrant serious contemplation, thought and even cellaring. Like their expensive burgundy cousins in the north, their labels display the name of the commune where the wine is from. This stamp of approval for quality is a good thing, especially if you're afraid you'll be viewed as a cheapskate or jokester when bringing this wine to a tasting, because it will actually make you look as though you know something.

In the end, it really just goes back to the basic tenets of quality. The hand-crafted stuff should be (and usually is) better than the mass-produced ones.

While it is definitely not a wine for everyone, it is surely a wine that will cause those who are willing to take the chance to be pleasantly surprised.

So let's band together to change my based-on-nothing assumption, and seek out a cru beaujolais, to help get that once-a-year consumption percentage under 90 percent.

Beaujolais worth seeking out:

Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Nouveau ($15.95): A good starter. Not a cru beaujolais, but it's medium-bodied and refreshing, and it goes surprisingly well with much of our local fare.

Thivin Cote de Brouilly ($20.95): Fuller and more concentrated, this one boasts exotic spices and dark fruit characteristics.

Chignard Fleurie Les Moriers ($23.95): This area will usually produce the most expensive bottlings. More elegant in style, this one is layered, nuanced and has velvety fruitiness.

Thevenet Morgon Vielles Vignes ($19.95): Delicious, firm, earthy and even a little musky. Morgon wines can usually age for five to seven years, and in fact, benefit from a couple of years in the bottle before consumption.

Andre Lopez is owner and operator of The People's Wine Shop, 1136 South King St. Reach him at 593-7887 or www.thepeopleswineshop.com.