Many women in Hawai'i do not own a mu'umu'u or holoku. So when they receive an invitation that says "Hawaiian Formal Attire," they are mystified.

But formal, Hawaiian-style attire is sometimes called for. At Sunday's Washington Place Foundation's upscale fundraiser, "The Queen's Birthday Ball" (see box, Page E3), it's a must.

What to wear? Event chairwoman Mary Philpotts McGrath had a Princess Ka'iulani holoku custom-made, in seafoam green velvet devore. She planned ahead, of course. But there are other options.

We spoke with several savvy designers and men and women who often attend formal Hawaiian functions, and came up with some ideas and sources for Hawaiian-style formal wear. The tips can also be adapted for your own Hawaiian-style party.

HAWAIIAN STYLE

A custom-made holoku is ideal. Allow four to eight weeks to have it made. In Honolulu, Princess Kaiulani Fashions, Mamo and Nake'u Awai all accept custom orders. A date's sash can even be made to match your holoku.

Not into holoku? A long skirt, preferably with petticoat, will do. Top it off with a lacy or ruffled white blouse. (They are on trend right now, so it should be easy to find one.)

Princess Kaiulani Fashions also can make a long-sleeved shirt and sash for men. Pair it with white pants.

For men, a white tuxedo shirt works well, or dress up a simple long-sleeved oxford shirt (starched, of course) with an ascot and coordinating sash.

ACCESSORIES

Ni'ihau shell lei always look right. They're sold at locations including Na Mea Hawai'i, Ward Warehouse.

Or consider a Victorian cameo brooch, bracelet, earrings or necklace at Mellow's Antiques in Davies Pacific Center. Given plenty of time, Laura Mellow can create a custom piece.

Hadji Baba bags in shades of cream or white from SpaHalekulani gift shop are a nice finishing touch, as are woven handbags, called kili bags, from the Marshall Islands at the Hono-lulu Academy of Arts gift shop.

Feather lei are sold at Aunty Mary Lou's Na Lima Mili Hulu No'eau on Kapahulu Avenue and Na Mea Hawai'i in Ward Warehouse.

A Victorian hair comb or haku lei can be an attractive adornment for women. Gloves and fans are also fun accompaniments and can sometimes be found in vintage and antique shops.

For men, a panama hat, preferably with a feather lei, is stylish. We found gorgeous hats at Newt in the Moana Surfrider, a Westin Resort and the Hilton Hawaiian Village.

ON YOUR FEET

Bare feet are fine; in fact, they are recommended. If bare feet make you squeamish, socks for men are OK.

If you must wear shoes, white loafers are the best alternative for men, strappy sandals for women.

Tabi, those Japanese cotton foot coverings you see at bon dances, are what tutu wore to formal Hawaiian occasions; they still look fun and fresh. Shirokiya at Ala Moana Center sells them.