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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, February 13, 2008

TASTE
Cashew chicken a simple stir-fry

 •  Make a DASH for deliberately healthy dishes

By Bonnie S. Benwick
Washington Post

To cook with Franklin Fung Chow in his small apartment kitchen is to understand the economy of effort that is required to make a fine, simple Chinese dish. The Washington resident, 72, has taught basic Chinese cooking techniques for almost 30 years.

Like any accomplished, instinctive cook, Chow is hard-pressed to offer precise ingredient amounts for his cashew chicken. But during a private session, his low-key tutorial fills in the gaps: "You must start with a sharp knife," he says, or, in his case, a compact, immaculate Chinese cleaver. "A wok's not important — and sometimes it's too big to allow cooking on other burners, anyway." (That explains the well-seasoned cast-iron skillet on the left front burner.)

The main elements — chicken, nuts and vegetables — can be replaced with a variety of other ingredients (but not tomatoes or potatoes; too watery for stir-fry, he says). Try not to overcook anything. Add the cashews off the heat, to preserve their crunch.

A circa-1971 rice cooker bubbles away while his dish comes together. Chow likes to toss in several thin slices of dried Chinese sausage for flavor; using chicken broth instead of water adds even more depth to the rice, he says.

In minutes, he brings the main dish and steamed rice to the table, pours tea and unravels stories of the grand Chinese Lunar New Year parades in his native San Francisco. "My students ask me, 'What makes your food taste different from what I can get at my neighborhood Chinese restaurant?' I say, 'Learn the basics. Your food will always taste better.' " All in all, a good lesson for the Year of the Rat.

CASHEW CHICKEN

  • 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs

  • Pinch sugar

  • Pinch salt

  • 2 teaspoons cornstarch

  • 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce, plus more for drizzling

  • 1/4 teaspoon sesame oil, plus more for drizzling

  • 1 tablespoon dry sherry

  • 1/2 teaspoon jarred minced ginger root

  • 1 teaspoon jarred minced garlic

  • Pinch freshly ground black pepper

  • 1 large carrot, peeled and trimmed

  • 1 rib celery, trimmed of tough strings

  • 1/2 small white onion (may substitute 1 shallot bulb)

  • 3 to 4 scallions, white and light-green parts

  • 2 tablespoons peanut oil

  • 2 tablespoons low-sodium chicken broth

  • 1/2 cup roasted, unsalted whole cashews (may use salted cashews)

    Cut the chicken into small pieces (the size of whole cashews) and place in a medium bowl. Add the sugar, salt, cornstarch, soy sauce, sesame oil, sherry, ginger, garlic and black pepper; mix well and let marinate while you prep the vegetables.

    Cut the carrot, celery and onion into 2-inch pieces, then cut into matchstick-thin strips. Cut the scallions crosswise into thin slices. (You should have between 1/4 cup and 1/2 cup of each.)

    Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high or high heat until it is almost smoking. Add a pinch of salt to the oil (for flavor), then add the vegetables and stir-fry for 2 minutes, constantly moving them around. Transfer them to a plate and add the chicken to the hot skillet; stir-fry for 2 to 3 minutes, constantly moving the chicken so it cooks evenly. Add the chicken broth and cook for 30 seconds, stirring to form a thin sauce. Add the vegetables and stir-fry for about 30 seconds, just to heat through.

    Divide the mixture among individual plates and sprinkle cashews on top of each serving. Drizzle with a small amount of sesame oil and soy sauce; serve immediately.

    Makes 4 servings.

  • Per serving: 279 calories, 17 g protein, 14 g carbohydrates, 18 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 54 mg cholesterol, 450 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber