WHERE: You don't have to stay at Hotel del Coronado to be enchanted by it. Rising directly on the ocean-facing beach of Coronado Island, across the bay from San Diego, the "Del" is one of the few surviving examples of an American architectural genre: the wooden Victorian beach resort.

This month, the hotel celebrates its 120th birthday. When completed in February 1888, the building — topped by its famous red conical rooftop — entered the pantheon of luxury hotels frequented by U.S. presidents, international dignitaries and Hollywood movie stars. Total cost: $1 million.

Today, the hotel, one of California's oldest and largest all-wood buildings, is a National Historic Landmark, and retains a guest list no less exclusive.

There are main resort rooms and several outdoor beach villas. In the lobby, polished dark wood floors creak beneath your feet. Staying here reflects a certain elegance and style, evidenced by the expensive luggage being trundled by bellboys to and from elevators.

Through paneled wood doors to the high-ceilinged Crown dining room, crisp white tablecloths and silver-domed food covers catch the light; Sunday brunch is in full swing. On the outdoor terrace, non hotel guests sip champagne and order light. Out on the beach, tables are being set up for an elaborate evening function. Each table has an overhead heater — after all, this is February.

GUEST LIST: It's impressive: Thomas Edison, Charlie Chaplin, Babe Ruth and Charles Lindbergh are part of the hotel's legendary history. In 1920, England's Edward VIII was a guest when his future wife, Wallis Simpson, lived in Coronado. They may have met each other at the hotel before embarking on a royal scandal. Ten U.S. presidents have signed the guest book.

WHAT TO DO: Stroll through the lobby and the grounds, and marvel at the roofline designed by architect James Reid. Order a tropical drink in the Babcock & Story Bar, named for the Del's founders Elisha Babcock and H.L. Story. Or sit by the ocean on top of the sand dunes and watch the sunset. Actually, they're not strictly dunes ... seen from an aircraft (or Google Earth) these carefully engineered mounds in the sand spell out "Coronado" in 50-foot-long letters.

IF YOU GO: Hotel del Coronado rates begin at $335 per night in the main hotel; $435 per night in the beach villas. View the hotel's dining menus at www.hoteldel.com/dining. 619-435-6611, www.hoteldel.com.

Reach Chris Oliver at coliver@honoluluadvertiser.com.