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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Monday, February 18, 2008

Wearable art by Zhang on display

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Chinese influence is unmistakable in these Cicada originals by Monique Zhang.

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CICADA IN HONOLULU

Ten of Monique Zhang's outfits are on display through Sunday:

  • 10 a.m.-7 p.m. today-Friday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

    C.S. Wo Gallery, 702 S. Beretania St.

    Free

    Information: 543-5388

    Zhang is also available for personal consultations and custom designs today and tomorrow. She can design a jacket or other piece to go with a favorite outfit or she can create a one-of-a-kind complete ensemble. Prices depend on the styles and fabrics chosen. To make an appointment, call 223-5134.

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    Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

    Elegant evening wear is what Cicada designer Monique Zhang is best known for. She is in town with a collection of wearable art.

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    Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

    Monique Zhang

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    In Honolulu, wearable art has a greater audience and appreciation than in many international cities. Perhaps it's because of our ties with the East, where hand weaving, natural dyeing, elaborate embroidery and embellishments are a tradition. Or perhaps our local active and enthusiastic groups of wearable artists, such as the Hawaii Handweavers Hui and Hawai'i Fiber Arts & Stitchery Guild, keep the interest level up.

    As a nod to our place in the world of wearable art, in September Honolulu will play host to the prestigious 11th Biennial Textile Society of America Symposium, which will feature wearable artists from all over the world. We are often in the fortunate position to welcome artists in this field.

    This week, Monique Zhang of San Francisco, designer of Cicada, is here with her current collection of wearable art — around 80 ensembles.

    Zhang, who was born in Taiwan, moved to the U.S. at age 21 to pursue a career in the fashion industry. Her mentor was the late Sandra Sakata, a respected designer beloved by many of Honolulu's well-dressed women. Sakata's boutique, Obiko, was a must-stop shop for many Island women.

    For 10 years, Zhang owned her own shop in San Francisco, called Cicada (named for Sakata, as the names sound alike when spoken). She recently decided to veer away from retail and operate out of an atelier in the Perine Mansion.

    "I felt I needed to be more mobile in the world," Zhang said.

    Now able to travel more, she recently made her first visit to Shanghai, China, where her parents were born. This has clearly inspired her design aesthetic.

    Her current collection includes "La Robe Royale de Chine." Inspired by the dynasties of China, the jacket's silhouette is that of a dynastic coat with high neck and bell sleeves. Under it, she suggests a gown called "Femme Hawai'i," an ombre chiffon in shades of blue reminiscent of, Zhang said, "a mermaid in an undersea paradise."

    Her current penchant for blues is in sync with designers worldwide. Even Pantone, the color experts, are touting blues as the biggest hues for spring and summer.

    "My inspiration is looking down from an airplane. It's that blue of the sky and the ocean," Zhang said. "But I am also loving strong floral pastels like yummy pinks, as well as wonderful black-and-white and of course, for Chinese New Year, black and red."

    While Asian influence is predominant, there's a little of Africa and South America in Zhang's color and silhouettes, too.

    While Zhang is best known for her elegant, sophisticated evening wear and mother of the bride ensembles, she is also pursuing a more casual elegance.

    "I am here in Honolulu to meet people who can start with what they have, and I can help them add a piece to their existing wardrobe to make a transformation with sophistication and joy," Zhang said.

    Of course, not everyone can afford a custom-made jacket or gown (many Cicada garments can cost as much as $3,000), but it's nice to gawk at the 10 garments exhibited at C.S. Wo.

    Reach Paula Rath at paularath@aol.com.