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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Keep lipstick looking fresh with tips by Laura Mercier

Photo galleryPhoto gallery: Ready-to-Wear fashions from Paris

By Samantha Critchell
Associated Press Fashion Writer

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Makeup artist Laura Mercier, who says she never leaves home without lipstick, offers several ways to apply lipstick for different looks.

SUZANNE PLUNKETT | Bloomberg News Service

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Lipstick is makeup artist Laura Mercier's essential tool.

"Lipstick is my favorite thing in the world," she says. "It's my favorite to work on in the lab and it's my favorite thing to wear."

In fact, she doesn't leave home without it. "It makes me feel alive. ... I love my lips to feel supple and nourished, and I feel awake and 'done' when it's on."

But she doesn't necessarily wear the same shade lipstick in the same way every day — a common rut for women.

Her tips for keeping lipstick looking fresh:

  • The purpose of using a lip pencil before applying lipstick is to create a barrier that keeps the oil from the lipstick on the lips instead of feathering above and below.

    It's important to pick a shade of pencil that closely matches the shade of lipstick, Mercier says, or you end up with a cartoonish look. Follow the lip line from the inside with the pencil and then blend the color inward with your finger. This mutes the intensity of the border.

    "You don't want harsh contour," Mercier explains.

  • Her textbook application of lipstick is a three-step process, according to Mercier: Use your pencil, use a slanted-tip lipstick, blot with a tissue to absorb the oil. (Pigment will remain, she says.)

    An optional fourth step is to also use a tissue to spread a little bit of powder to set the color for many hours to come.

    The result is a velvety, matte look that's particularly good for strong reds, Mercier says.

  • If the surface area of the lipstick tip is too wide, don't risk going outside the lines by applying directly from the tube. Instead, use a brush or your finger.

    Using your finger also allows the lipstick to be used more as a stain, which will have the same color as the lipstick but not appear as thick. Dab on a very thin coat and then add a little lip balm in the center — it'll almost look like a "just-bitten lip," Mercier describes.

    This technique works especially well with dark colors and is ideal for cocktail parties because the lip color isn't cakey and won't come off on a glass, says Mercier.

    She adds: "You can kiss and it won't get all over everybody."

  • Another lip that will stay on: one drawn with a chestnut or brown-rose neutral pencil. You draw it, fill it in, blend and take off excess with a tissue. All-over application of a clear gloss is optional.

    There's a lot of control in this method, says Mercier, because you're painting your lips on with an easy-to-use tool, and a brownish rose shade is the closest thing to a universal color she's found. "It's not too cool or too warm. It basically works on everyone."