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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, January 9, 2008

TASTE
Boring salads are over — try these instead

 •  Redefine salad

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser
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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser
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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser
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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser
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This is a traditional Russian salad, served on celebratory occasions. Pair this hearty and filling dish with steamed or grilled fish or chicken. If you can find yellow or other specialty beets in a farmers market, try those for variety.

RUSSIAN BEET AND WALNUT SALAD

  • 5 medium fresh beets, scrubbed and peeled

  • 1/2 cup chopped walnuts, toasted and rubbed in a towel to remove skins

  • 20 soft pitted prunes, chopped

  • 3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

  • 1/4 to 1/2 cup mayonnaise (or less-fat mayonnaise)

  • Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

    Place beets in a saucepan with just enough water to cover; bring to a boil and simmer until fork-tender, about 20-30 minutes. Drain. Cool and grate into a serving bowl. Add walnuts, prunes and garlic. Mix lightly with mayonnaise, starting with a couple of tablespoons and adding more to taste. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

    Makes 6 servings.

  • Per serving: (based on 1/4 cup mayonnaise and not including salt to taste) — 220 calories, 14 g fat, 1.5 g saturated fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 100 mg sodium, 24 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 14 g sugar, 3 g protein; OR (based on 1/2 cup mayonnaise and not including salt to taste): 300 calories, 23 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 170 mg sodium, 24 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 14 g sugar, 3 g protein

    The longtime master of heart-healthy cooking, Joe Piscatella, recommends this surprisingly indulgent-sounding salad but note that he employs what he calls "balancing skills" — because rich steak and blue cheese are used, the dressing is fat-free. Be sure to crumble or chop the blue cheese into small bits, so that it's distributed through the mixture.

    GRILLED STEAK AND ONION SALAD

  • 1 large red onion

  • 1 pound top sirloin steak

  • 8 cups chopped hearts of romaine

  • 4 Roma tomatoes, sliced into 1/4-inch rounds

  • 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar or to taste

  • Dash freshly ground pepper

  • 2 tablespoons crumbled blue cheese

    Slice onion into 1-inch chunks and thread onto water-soaked bamboo skewers. Broil or grill 4 minutes a side.

    Grill or broil steak 4-6 minutes a side, or to desired doneness. Slice into thin strips.

    Divide romaine among four plates. Top with tomatoes, steak, onions and drizzle with balsamic vinegar and pepper. Scatter blue cheese over salad.

    Makes 4 entree salad servings.

  • Per serving: 292 calories, 39 g protein, 155 mg sodium, 13 g carbohydrate, 104 mg cholesterol, 10 g fat (4 g saturated fat), 4g fiber

    In their book, "The Healthy Kitchen," Andrew Weil and Rosie Daley recommend shrimp and green papaya salad for its balance of subdued sweetness and chili-driven kick. The best green papaya are a variety meant to be used green — sold in Chinatown, in Asian groceries and at farmers markets. In Vietnamese groceries, you can sometimes find papaya already grated and ready to use.

    THAI SHRIMP AND PAPAYA SALAD

    For the salad:

  • 12 large, raw, cleaned, peeled, deveined shrimp

  • 1 tablespoon sesame oil

  • 1/4 teaspoon red chili paste (i.e., sambal oelek) (optional)

  • 6 cups washed and dried greens (mesclun-type mix)

  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

  • 1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

  • 1/4 cup olive oil

    For the green papaya salsa:

  • 1/2 to 1 bunch cilantro

  • 1 cup cubed green papaya

  • 1/4 cup cubed red bell pepper

  • 1/4 cup diced red onion

  • 1 small jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced (optional)

  • 2 tablespoons lime juice

    Preheat the broiler or grill. In a medium bowl, toss the shrimp with sesame oil and chili paste. Grill the shrimp 1 minute or so, until pink and cooked through. Set aside.

    In a large bowl, toss together greens, salt, lemon juice and olive oil.

    Make a salsa, plucking the cilantro leaves from their stems and placing them in a small bowl with green papaya. Add bell pepper, onion, jalapeno and lime juice. Toss shrimp in salsa.

    Divide greens mixture among six plates and top with 2 shrimp each.

    Makes 6 first-course servings.

  • Per serving: 188 calories, 14.3 g fat (2 g saturated fat), 7.8 g protein, 9.4 g carbohydrate, 40 mg cholesterol, 2.3 g fiber

    Lorna Sass ("Complete Vegetarian Kitchen," William Morrow, 1992) takes the familiar and gives it a new treatment in this celery slaw, making use of a widely available vegetable that rarely gets the respect it deserves.

    CELERY SLAW

  • 1 medium bunch celery (1 pound; 4 cups), strings removed and very thinly sliced

  • 1 large carrot, finely chopped

  • 1/4 cup raisins or dried currants or dried cranberries

  • 1/2 cup mayonnaise (or soy mayonnaise)

  • 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

  • Sea salt to taste

    In a bowl, combine celery, carrot, dried fruit. Whisk together mayonnaise, vinegar, mustard. Dress salad; taste and add salt as desired. Chill at least 1 hour before serving.

    Makes 4 side salad servings.

  • Per serving: 250 calories, 22 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 300 mg sodium, 13 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 9 g sugar, 1 g protein

    In June 2005, the editors of Cook's Illustrated came up with an unusual pairing of apple and parsley when they "threw away the rule book on vinaigrettes." This is particularly nice with spicy greens such as arugula and watercress. Garnish with shaved Parmesan, toasted nuts and thin slices of apple or fennel.

    FRESH APPLE AND PARSLEY DRESSING

  • 1 medium apple, unpeeled, quartered, cored, cut into 1-inch cubes

  • 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

  • 1 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Tabasco

  • 1 green onion, chopped coarsely

  • 1/4 cup fresh Italian parsley leaves

  • 3/4 teaspoon table salt

  • 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

  • 2 to 3 tablespoons water

  • 1/2 cup vegetable oil

    In a blender, combine all ingredients EXCEPT oil and pulse, scraping down sides and adding water as needed until very finely chopped. With machine running, add oil, scraping down blender jar as needed.

    Refrigerate in airtight container up to 1 week.

    Makes 1 1/2 cups, a serving is 1 tablespoon. (For two servings, use a quart of greens and 2 tablespoons dressing.)

  • Per serving: (per tablespoon dressing only) — 45 calories, 4.5 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 75 mg sodium, 1 g carbohydrate, 0 g fiber, 1 g sugar, 0 g protein; OR (per tablespoon dressing plus 1 quart of greens) 70 calories, 4.5 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 100 mg sodium, 5 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 2 g sugar, 2 g protein

    Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.