one, surfer, continues, his, ride, while, another, who, bailed, out, goes, airborne, waimea, bay, yesterday, waves, were, approaching, feet, national, weather, service, said, north, shore, surf, reached, to, foot, heights, afternoon, expected, drop, west, was, be, in, range, bodyboarder, stays, front, huge, wave, as, it, breaks, gradually, subside, through, tomorrow, night, new, swell, from, south, sunday, three, dozen, surfers, sometimes, lineup, making, crowded, intrepid, takes, than, times, tall, himself, calls, day, walks, board, water, catch, two, surfboards, get, tossed, about, shorebreak, after, riders, blake, dickson, pupukea, shows, what, left, norcal, he, wiped, footer, landed, head, survived, initial, breaking, but, smashed, pieces, subsequent, poundings, hopes, replace, with, dwarfed, by, scores, people, showed, up, watch, s, offshore, action, opportune, time, paddle, lifeguard, john, hoogsteden, puts, yellow, caution, tape, restrict, access, hazardous, waters, tables, near, watching, are, michael, dahlum, natalie, ortiz, stephanie, reyes, mike, medeguari, schofield, barracks