With a mortar and pestle, or a blender, grind the garlic, rosemary, salt and fennel seed. Continue grinding while adding the olive oil to make a coarse paste.

Using poultry shears or a chef's knife, cut the chicken alongside the backbone, all the way from neck to tail. Repeat on the other side of the backbone, removing it from the carcass.

Place the chicken skin side up on the cutting board, opened out like a book. Firmly press down on the center of the breast to crack the sternum and flatten the chicken. Place the chicken in a resealable plastic bag and spoon in the herb mixture. Press out the air, seal tightly and massage to distribute the marinade evenly. Refrigerate overnight or leave at room temperature for 1 hour.

Wrap a 1-foot-square paving stone or brick in aluminum foil. Start the coals in a chimney and when they are lightly coated with gray ash, about 20 minutes, empty them into the grill, arranging them in a gentle slope against one side. Replace the grill rack and brush it with oil.

Place the chicken skin side down on the grill rack, away from the direct heat but with the drumsticks pointing toward the fire. Brush one side of the foil-covered brick with oil and place it on top of the chicken.

Grill until the skin is well-browned, about 20 minutes. Remove the brick and turn the chicken over, placing it skin-side up directly over the fire. Cook until the juices at the hip and knee joints run clear when pierced with a knife, about 5 minutes. Remove to a carving board and let rest 5 minutes to distribute the juices evenly before carving. Serve immediately.

Total time: 40 minutes, plus marinating time.

Serves 4 to 6.

NAKED RIBS

In a jar, combine the chile, salt, sugar, garlic powder, onion powder, pepper, cumin and coriander, crushing any chunks of brown sugar. Cover tightly and shake well to combine thoroughly.

Trim the ribs, cutting away any excess fat pieces and loose ends without bones. Lay the ribs flat with the bony underside facing up. If you prefer, remove the flap of meat that covers part of one side. Use a small knife or skewer to poke through the thin, tough membrane that covers the rib bones, lifting a corner of it. Use a clean kitchen cloth to get a good grip and gently but firmly pull the membrane away from the ribs. It will come up in sheets; you may have to repeat the process a couple of times to get it all.

Sprinkle both sides of the ribs with the dry rub mixture, using about 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons per side. Rub to distribute evenly, and then seal tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate 1 hour to overnight.

Soak 3 cups of hickory chips in enough water to cover generously. Start the coals in a chimney and when they are lightly coated with gray ash, about 20 minutes, empty them into the grill, arranging them in a gentle slope against one side.

When those coals have cooled slightly, about 20 minutes, add two-thirds of the wood chips, replace the grill rack and brush it with oil. Arrange the rib rack well away from the heat and cover tightly so that the lid's vent holes are over the ribs, opposite the flame. Smoke, turning every 30 minutes or so, until the meat begins to pull away from the rib tips and is so tender that a center bone can almost be pulled loose, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. After about an hour, you'll need to replenish the smoke, adding the remaining wood chips on top of the coals.

Remove the racks from the fire and wrap them tightly in aluminum foil. Set aside for 30 minutes to 1 hour to rest. Serve at room temperature, or reheat briefly on the grill, off the fire, before serving.

Serves 6 to 8.

Total time: 2 hours (but much of that is marinating time).

INDIAN-SPICED GRILLED LAMB

Stir together the yogurt and vinegar. Add the garlic, squeezed through a press or smashed, then minced. Stir in the black pepper, ginger, serrano chile, cumin and salt.

Place the lamb in a resealable plastic bag, then pour in the yogurt mixture. Press out the air, seal tightly and massage to distribute the marinade evenly. Let stand at room temperature 1 to 2 hours.

Start the coals in a chimney and when they are lightly coated with gray ash, about 20 minutes, empty them into the grill, arranging them in a gentle slope against one side. Replace the grill rack and brush it with oil.

Place the lamb skin side down directly over the flame and sear for 2 to 4 minutes. Turn and sear the other side. Move the lamb away from the direct heat and cook until it is brown and crusty on the outside and has reached an interior temperature of 130 degrees, about 25 minutes.

Transfer the lamb to a carving board and let rest 5 to 10 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute before carving in thick slices. Serve immediately.

Serves 6 to 8.

Total time: 45 minutes plus marinating time.