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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, June 13, 2008

Kuli'ou'ou perfect to break in on, or get back to basics

 •  Series of UH football camps on schedule

By Michael Tsai
Advertiser Staff Writer

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Even on a cloudy day, the view from the summit offers a nice aerial view of Hawai'i Kai. The Windward Coast is a 180-degree turn away.

Advertiser staff photos

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TODAY'S HIKE: KULI'OU'OU RIDGE

Level: Beginner/intermediate

Total distance: 5 miles

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Kuli'ou'ou Ridge is a relatively safe hike, but steep climbs over eroded surfaces (left) require sure footing. After a 200-foot ascent to the top, there's no sweeter sight than the turnaround sign (right).

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser
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DIRECTIONS TO TRAILHEAD

Driving on the H-1 eastbound, turn left on 'Elelupe Street and proceed on to Kuli'ou'ou Road. Heading mauka, turn right on Kala'au Place and continue to the cul-de-sac at the end. The trailhead is located just beyond the Board of Water Supply gate.

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WHAT WE LIKE

An easy initial stroll up well-maintained switchbacks that is suitable for beginning hikers, progressing into a more rigorous physical challenge with a safe but steep ascent to the ridgeline; a cool respite among towering pines; a short section of Native Hawaiian forest; great views of Hawai'i Kai, Waimanalo and Kane'ohe (if the skies are clear).

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WHAT WE DON'T LIKE

Eroded areas near the steps leading up to the top of the ridge; relatively high traffic during the summer; monotony of switchbacks through the first mile. But, really, this is quibbling just to quibble.

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From summit ridges to lush, green valleys, fast-running streams to bone-dry brush, Hawai'i's public access trails offer an unrivaled variety of unique hiking experiences — sometimes on a single trail. Advertiser reporter Michael Tsai takes a look at some of O'ahu's best novice, intermediate and advanced trails.

In every hiking life, there are those inevitable days when the motivation to scale sheer cliffs and forge fast-running streams runs as low as your gas tank the day before payday.

On those occasions when all you can do is pooh-pooh the pu'us and say mañana to Manana, there's no better remedy than a tried-and-true trail that feels as comfortable and familiar as your favorite pair of jeans.

For many foot-weary hikers on O'ahu, Kuli'ou'ou is nothing less than Chicken Soup for the Sole.

Gentle yet challenging, this highly scenic East Honolulu trail offers a mélange of simple delights to hikers of every level.

The trailhead is located at a cul-de-sac at the end of Kala'au Place. To start, take the short paved trail beyond the chain fence. Straight ahead is the Kuli'ou'ou Valley Trail, but keep an eye out for a sign and boot-scrub to the right that indicates the start of the ridge trail.

The trail begins with several rolling climbs along a series of long switchbacks. The trail appears to fork at least twice early on, but stick to the broader, more clearly defined pathway.

The turns can be abrupt, with careful footing required to safely scale rocky or eroded elbows, but patience pays off for both you and the trail. Crosscutting is unnecessarily dangerous and can quicken the erosion of one of the more popular trails on the island.

Less than a mile up, the trail softens — literally — with the first of two shady ironwood groves.

After a brief return to open trail, you'll hit a second, longer grove of ironwoods marking the approach to the first convenient turnaround point. The trail disappears beneath a thick carpet of ironwood needles, but the shape of the path is visible if you pay attention (if not, veer slightly to the right and aim for open space beyond the stand of Norfolk pines).

After arcing through a narrow turn and climbing a short but eroded hill, you will come to a pair of picnic tables beneath a simple but well-maintained cover structure. For novice hikers, or those who simply desire a short, easy hike, this is a good point at which to turn around.

From here, the trail gets steeper and more challenging, though still suitable for intermediate hikers in decent physical condition.

A short hill leads to a broad clearing within a Norfolk pine forest. Even on a warm day, the constant northerly breeze through the trees can be chilling.

A longer uphill stretch up a narrow, rocky path and through a dense forest of 'ohi'a follows — the first real cardio test of the hike — eventually leading to the summit ridge at 2,000 feet. A plastic-lumber bench is located to the left for an ideal lookout spot.

Soon after, a portal of criss-crossing trees resembling a doorway marks a short patch of native forest.

The final 200 feet of elevation is gained in a series of short but steep ascents up loose dirt and man-made steps. Be mindful of the eroded areas around the steps, which can be especially treacherous in wet weather.

A long series of steps comprises the steepest sustained climb of the hike and ultimately leads to the summit of the hike, a dusty clearing overlooking the Windward Coast.

The downhill return can be treacherous given the steep grade, the amount of erosion along the summit ridge, the exposed metal spikes that secure the steps. Further down, the exposed roots of the 'ohi'a forest can easily trip up quick-descending hikers.

While the approach to the summit is steep and requires sure footing, the overall difficulty of the 5-mile, out-and-back trail is moderate enough for experienced trail runners to get a good, relatively quick workout. Whether hiking or running, the downhill return can be completed in about half the time (or less) of the ascent.

Because of its easy accessibility and abundant rewards, the Kuli'ou'ou Ridge Trail attracts a steady flow of local and visiting hikers year-round. And as hundreds of hiking aficionados can attest, it's a trail worth revisiting over and over.

Reach Michael Tsai at mtsai@honoluluadvertiser.com.