honoluluadvertiser.com

Sponsored by:

Comment, blog & share photos

Log in | Become a member
The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, March 12, 2008

RAISE A GLASS
Clearing up some ubiquitous myths about wine

 •  The tasteful truth about tomatoes

By Cynthia Fenner

Today we'll tackle some common sayings about wine, and I'll offer my verdict on their veracity.

WINE GETS BETTER WITH AGE

While it is true most wine is consumed within 45 minutes of purchase, there are people who go to great lengths and expense collecting wine, building wine cellars and purchasing wine refrigeration units. Some are serious collectors and know what they are doing; others are storing some very expensive vinegar ... well not exactly vinegar (that's another myth) but wine that has lost its fruit. There are few wines actually worth storing for the long haul. The wine has got to have the tannic structure and/or acid to develop properly. For instance, California cabernets rarely have the ability to age over more than eight years. And red zinfandel can fall apart very quickly. On the other hand, French Bordeaux and Burgundies (even white burgundy) can age very well. Surprisingly, I have tasted some superb older rieslings due to the great acidity. And of course, vintage porto was made for aging and travel. It is fortified with spirits and, as the story goes, you should buy your child a pipe of port on his birth (if they happen to be born in a declared vintage) to be consumed once the child reaches 21.

Verdict: In a very few cases.

WHITE WINE WITH FISH, RED WINE WITH RED MEAT:

This is the standard advice for the wine novice who is handed an intimidating wine list in a restaurant. So let's clear this up once and for all: drink what you like — if you prefer white wine with red meat go ahead and have it. There are some chardonnays that will stand up to a juicy steak. I personally love pinot noir (or red burgundy) with just about everything. It is light enough to go with fish or turkey and yet pair it with a steak and I'm a happy girl. Riesling is a great match for many occasions and champagne goes with everything, as does a nice dry rose.

Verdict: Throw that rule out the window.

DRINK WHITE WINE COLD AND RED WINE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE:

Lucky we live Hawai'i. Chill your white wine to a nice cool, not cold, temperature; you will notice much more nuance in the wine if it is not freezing your palate. At dinner I always ask to have the ice bucket removed, unless I am enjoying Champagne. Red wine? Chill cooler than room temperature; it will be much more enjoyable in our warm weather. And throw in an ice cube if you wish — I have seen many wine connoisseurs do just that, so it is not a faux pas at all.

Verdict: Enjoy wine at the temperature you like best.

EXPENSIVE WINE IS BETTER THAN INEXPENSIVE WINE:

When purchasing a bottle of wine, most customers ask me what is the difference between a $15 bottle and a $300 bottle. There are so many factors that go into the pricing of a bottle of wine. Think of where the wine is grown: Land in Napa is going to cost much more than land in Chile, for example. Once again, think about how manual labor costs in the region that wine is grown. Is there a star winemaker on board? Is the wine aged in oak barrels? Old or new barrels — new oak barrels cost a small fortune. Or maybe they throw in oak chips, or no oak at all; stainless steel or cement perhaps? Then the wine has to come to our Islands. Shipping adds to the cost, especially when it comes to the distributors that opt for refrigerated containers. One more factor that comes into play: Has the wine gotten a high rating recently or won Wine Spectator's coveted "Wine of the Year?" If so, you may find the price can triple overnight!

Verdict: Not necessarily

OPEN A BOTTLE EARLY TO BREATHE

When opening a wine for dinner in a restaurant, the server may pop the cork to let the wine "breath." Considering the small opening at the neck of the bottle this will not be very effective. So ask the server to either decant the wine (pour it into another container) or pour a few ounces into your glass to start opening up the wine.

Verdict: Just opening the bottle will not do the job.

I'll tackle some further wine myths in my next column.

And here are some wine recommendations:

  • A pinot noir to match just about anything: '05 Copeland Creek Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast; $29.

  • A Champagne to drink ice-cold: A. Margaine Demi Sec; $52.

  • A great quality wine that is inexpensive: Stickleback Red blend from Australia; $18.